SEA CHANGE

With its blend of minerals, antioxidants and hydration, seaweed is making fresh waves in skincare, Ellen Cummings gets the expert lowdown

Seaweed might be dismissed by some as little more than coastal detritus or a dinner plate delicacy, but in the spa and skincare industry, it’s one of the most potent natural ingredients on the menu.

Whether used in facials, wraps or targeted homecare, this marine botanical is experiencing a resurgence in popularity, becoming synonymous with regeneration, hydration and holistic healing.

To understand why seaweed is having a moment – and why that moment is likely to last – we spoke to two professionals involved in the world of marine-based skincare: scientist and Ishga co-founder Malcolm Macrae, and experienced spa therapist Katrina Sutherland, owner of The Country Spa in Lybster, Scotland, and a long-time Repêchage ambassador.

Why seaweed?

“Seaweed is an incredible marine plant,” explains Macrae. “It has been proven to regenerate skin cells, support collagen, contain detoxifying effects, supply a potent source of antioxidants, promote hyaluronic acid production and is a powerful hydrator for all skin types. It’s also an extremely resilient plant, and these properties transfer to our skin to deliver protection and healing.”

Seaweed’s strength lies in the fact that it’s not a single ingredient, but rather a category of diverse species, each with its own skin-boosting profile. Macrae points to three seaweed varieties that can be harvested from the Hebridean coastline, each offering targeted skincare benefits.

“Fucus serratus is known to contain high levels of antioxidant polyphenols which produce anti-ageing and hydrating effects. It’s excellent at repairing skin. Ascophyllum nodosum, on the other hand, balances the natural moisture barrier and acts as an anti-inflammatory while gently exfoliating. Fucus vesiculosus improves skin condition and reduces inflammation, releasing beneficial minerals like iodine and polysaccharides.”

These seaweeds are packed with bioactive compounds – not just antioxidants, but also essential minerals, polysaccharides like alginates and fucoidans, amino acids and skin vitamins A, C and E. Together, they address everything from fine lines to dehydration, sensitivity, acne and conditions like eczema and psoriasis.

It’s a profile that’s difficult to match with any one land-based plant, and therapists are taking note.

Therapists on the front line

For Sutherland, seaweed’s wide-ranging benefits were what first drew her to marine ingredients. At her spa in the Scottish Highlands, seaweed is central to both facial and body treatments.

“At The Country Spa, we offer a comprehensive selection of facials, plus hand and foot treatments, body exfoliations and seaweed wraps to target cellulite,” she says. “Seaweed products have been chosen for our salon as it is a natural and sustainable ingredient which delivers impressive nourishing and healing for the skin’s tissues. It is a safe ingredient with many different species… offering appropriate properties for a multitude of skin concerns. It really does provide an effective solution for everyone who visits us.”

Sutherland has worked with Repêchage for over two decades, describing it as a brand with a strong commitment to education and science. “The company’s values of embracing what nature has to offer align perfectly with that of The Country Spa,” she adds.

Treatments, whether facial or body-based, always start with a thorough consultation and product discussion. “Most clients are happy to be guided by their therapist as they recognise our expertise,” she explains. “After a relaxing treatment, the client is given a mirror to see the results, and we suggest a homecare regime so that results can be maintained.”

She’s seen firsthand the impact these products can have – not just on skin, but on confidence and wellbeing. “For people with dry, weathered, mature skin, they report skin feels softer, plumper and more elastic, with fine lines and wrinkles reduced, and contours tighter. For menopausal skin or acne rosacea, clients report that heat, redness and irritation is reduced… they feel much more comfortable and confident.”

Sutherland also highlights the role marine products can play for younger clients with acne-prone skin, as well as those undergoing or recovering from cancer treatment. “The Repêchage Hydra Medic range has been a life changer for teens… some clients have been spared from having to take pharmaceutical drugs for their acne. This has had a positive effect on their mental and physical health.”

Formulating with seaweed

Delivering results like these starts with careful extraction. “Our seaweed extract is the cornerstone of our range,” explains Macrae. “It’s extracted directly into Hebridean spring water using a low-temperature extraction process, which protects the beneficial compounds and enzymes. Our process has been independently tested and is rich in polyphenols for healthy skin.”

Formulation isn’t without challenges – early on, Ishga had to overcome the strong marine scent of raw seaweed without losing its therapeutic properties. “After much testing and trialling, we developed the low-temperature extraction process that’s at the heart of our range, which allows minimal odour while retaining all the incredible benefits,” he says.

Stability and potency are also key concerns, but Macrae points out that marine extracts are now widely recognised for their scientific efficacy. “Recent scientific advancements have highlighted marine ingredients as potent allies in skincare, offering solutions for hydration, anti-ageing and inflammation management,” he says. Ongoing research is exploring how seaweed could help with chronic skin conditions such as acne, psoriasis and atopic dermatitis – with early results looking promising.

The sustainability edge

In an industry increasingly focused on sustainability, seaweed is a natural frontrunner. “As a marine plant, seaweed does not need soil, fresh water or fertiliser to grow; it is completely self-sufficient, nutrientdense and grows rapidly year-round,” explains Macrae, adding that responsible harvesting methods are also important: “ensure it is cut properly to allow for quick, natural regeneration.”

Ishga’s seaweed harvesting is certified by the Biodynamic Association, with hand-harvesting methods and a rotating shoreline schedule to protect biodiversity and encourage natural regrowth.

Macrae adds, “There’s definitely growing enthusiasm among consumers and skincare therapists for marine-based, sustainable products. People are increasingly mindful of their skincare choices, actively seeking solutions that are effective, natural and eco-friendly.” Sutherland agrees: “Clients today want to know where ingredients come from, how they are harvested and what impact they have. Seaweed ticks all the boxes; it’s traceable, sustainable and offers real results.”

Where science meets spa

Despite its natural credentials, seaweed isn’t at odds with modern science. In fact, it often works in harmony with synthetic actives. “Seaweed-based ingredients are excellent for holistic, gentle skincare, ideal for barrier support, hydration and antioxidant protection,” says Macrae. “Synthetic actives are better suited for treating specific concerns quickly and efficiently. Many modern formulations now combine both for optimal results.”

At The Country Spa, this translates to seaweed being at the heart of personalised, science-informed spa protocols. “Seaweed products and protocols provide a relaxing but very effective treatment, which is endorsed by years of scientific research and training,” says Sutherland. “Clients are confident in our suggestions when we can explain the effects that the various products will have on the skin’s function.”

From soothing dryness and rosacea to supporting teenage skin health, seaweed is proving itself as a versatile and effective tool in the therapist’s kit.