Talking to… FIONA BRACKENBURY

The skin expert, educator, content creator and consultant tells Eve Oxberry about why epigenetics is set to change the industry and how therapists can position themselves as experts online

With over three decades of experience working in skincare education, treatment and product development, and global brand consultancy, Fiona Brackenbury is among the most respected voices in the beauty industry.

Many know her from her long-standing role on QVC, where she broke down ingredients and demystified skincare routines, representing Decléor as its global education director. Her varied career has also taken her around the world in spa management, education and product development roles.

Now, as an independent skincare consultant and educator, she’s in high demand – developing treatments for leading spas, guiding beauty brands through global product launches or mentoring teams to increase sales. You may also follow her sharp, educational social media content, where she regularly debunks myths and trends with science-backed clarity.

“I think the best thing about my job is that I don’t have a typical day,” Brackenbury says. “I can be in a treatment room designing protocols one day and training beauty professionals in ingredient science the next.”

This agility has made her uniquely positioned to comment on where the beauty industry is headed, from the surge of TikTok trends to the promise and pitfalls of AI-powered skincare.

With a dedicated following on Instagram, YouTube and beyond, Brackenbury has carved out her niche in an online space that’s often saturated with unqualified voices. Her advice to other therapists looking to establish themselves is consistency, clarity, and confidence in your knowledge.

Cutting through the noise

For those struggling to stand out in the crowd, she suggests taking a cue from medical professionals. “If you look at all the dermatologists, the first thing they say in their Reels is, ‘I’m a qualified board-certified dermatologist’. That brings trust. So, if you’re setting out, remind your audience that you are qualified, that you are the expert.”

However, the most important thing is stay true to yourself, she adds: “Don’t look at other people and think, ‘they’re really outgoing, I need to be more outgoing.’ People connect with people with integrity.” Engagement, she says, is also critical. “Every comment – make sure you follow up. Be helpful. That’s the biggest thing.”

And don’t overcomplicate things. “I think sometimes I overthink it, I think ‘Oh, nobody wants to hear about a classic skin tip that we all know’ but some of my posts that have had over a hundred thousand views have been of things that you and I take for granted,” she explains.

To work out what’s going to be a hit, she advises taking the time to review your idea before creating the content. “The best way I can recommend is to use Instagram or TikTok like you would Google. Put in your idea in the search bar. Did any of that content go viral? If it did, you are onto something. But if it didn’t, maybe you just need to tweak it a little bit.”

TikTok trends

While professionals like Brackenbury are helping to change the narrative on social media platforms, there is still a lot of misinformation. From slugging to sunscreen contouring, Instagram and TikTok are a hotbed of DIY skincare trends.

“Unsurprisingly, I don’t back beef tallow or rubbing garlic on your face. Or ice cubes. When did we decide ice cubes could get rid of wrinkles?”, says Brackenbury. “There’s an element of ‘just trust science’. I’m all about science-backed skincare.” However, not all trends are off the table. “The one that I actually quite like is skin minimalism,” she says. “Actives are becoming an obsession for some people, and that’s how they are damaging their skin. They’re doing 10 layers and mixing actives. Stripping it back and keeping it simple – that’s probably the best thing that’s come out of those trends.”

One of the biggest frustrations for Brackenbury right now is the social media trends that misinform young users and damage their skin. With tweens spending their pocket money on retinols and over-exfoliating “glass skin” routines, she is vocal about the need for earlier intervention – and professional guidance.

“They really do only need a gentle cleanser and a moisturiser with an SPF,” she says. “If you can get them just to put an SPF on, that’s really good.” She’s frequently approached by concerned parents. “The amount of people that contact me and say, ‘My daughter or my son has bought this and now their skin is worse’... They’re doing more damage than good,” she says.

Brackenbury believes the salon sector should be stepping into this space more confidently. “Teens and tweens are spending their money – don’t be fooled into thinking, ‘Oh, they haven’t got the money.’ I don’t know where they’re getting it from, but they’re spending a lot – and on expensive products.”

Her advice is to start with a professional consultation early. “That half an hour or an hour could completely change their skin for the future,” she adds.

Artificial intelligence is also creating a buzz in beauty, with skin-scanning apps and the like promising personalised results. But for Brackenbury, technology will always be an ally rather than a replacement for the human touch.

“I think AI is really exciting, but I am nervous,” she says. “I love the fact that it can help people at a beginner level who maybe aren’t coming into a salon or into a clinic. They can get some basic advice about where to start with a skincare routine that’s right for them, but it definitely can’t replace that hands-on analysis and treatment, that actual seeing and understanding of the skin.”

Instead, she recommends a tandem approach. “I think skin scanners, for example, are incredible because they show you what’s coming underneath the skin that the naked eye can’t see, so technology is exciting, but I think we need to stand firm, that we need to touch your skin and we need to see your skin in real life.”

Inflammaging and epigenetics

When it comes to the future of skincare innovation, right now, Brackenbury says, the most important and misunderstood issue is inflammaging. “You and I both could have inflammaging and we can’t see it,” she explains. “It’s bubbling away under the skin, but it’s causing a lot of damage.”

Again, she says skin scanners can be a crucial ally here. “They show you what’s underneath the skin. Consumers want to see that as well. It’s part of their investment into their skincare.”

Looking ahead, Brackenbury is excited about the rise of exosomes and epigenetics. “Epigenetics is one of the most exciting things to happen in the industry,” she says. “It’s about, for the first time ever, being able to say, ‘OK, we know how your skin has aged, but now let’s actually tackle that ageing’.”

She compares it to driving a car: “You love that car, but over time you hit potholes. It gets damaged. It’s a bit like your skin. But now we’re allowing our skin to actually repair that damage – and that’s why epigenetics is so exciting.”

As someone who has trained therapists all over the world, Brackenbury is passionate about a long-overdue change: respect for beauty therapists. “It really pains me when I hear the word beautician,” she says. “It’s like a stab in my heart.” She believes the industry needs to reframe how it presents itself. “I don’t know where it starts – maybe at college, maybe it’s the name of the courses – but we need to give the recognition.”

With dermatologists on the rise in the UK, Brackenbury says therapists are still the ones “closest to the skin” and deserve to be recognised for their knowledge and impact. “There are treatments the medical community is trying to keep for themselves when actually, skin professionals are very qualified to do those sorts of things. So I think more recognition is needed – it is so well deserved.”

Looking ahead

As for what’s next, Brackenbury is hard at work behind the scenes on several major projects, including a “very big skincare launch” and a treatment menu overhaul for a luxury spa.

“I’m quite enjoying advising – guiding brands on how to launch, how to communicate,” she says. “I was the face of a brand for many years. Now I’m enjoying being behind the scenes.”

She’s also back on home soil after a busy year in Australia launching a brand into the retail market. “This year I’m really glad to just be in the UK, a bit more close to home.”

And her biggest piece of advice to anyone building their career in beauty? “Be hungry for knowledge,” she says. “The more knowledge you have, the more you’ll succeed. And don’t turn down opportunities – even if there’s a little voice going, ‘Is that going to be worthwhile?’ Say yes. Trust yourself. You’ve got to back yourself, otherwise no one else will.”