Ask the experts

Our beauty experts answer your questions about every aspect of running a salon or spa business

What is colour theory and how should I use it in makeup application?

As a makeup artist, colour theory has become so engrained into my makeup arsenal that it’s as important as my makeup kit and brushes. Understanding the basics can take you from a good makeup artist to a great makeup artist.

Colour theory is a science used in the creative fields to capture the attention of anyone viewing a piece of work. Think about some of the most famous brand logos – they have all used colour theory to best select a combination of colours that will draw your eye. It is the same with makeup design; the colours you choose will determine whether a makeup look is pleasing to the eye or not, or whether the shades you have worked with complement the face you’re working on.

From my own experience, understanding colour theory has allowed me to condense my kit and work with a smaller shade range because I can mix exactly the shades I need.

With bodypaint, for example, having the three primary shades (red, blue, yellow) and black and white means I can create any colour imaginable. I want a coral? No problem – I mix my pink and yellow with a little white. If I want a deep burgundy, I will mix my red and blue with a touch or orange and just a smidge of black, and there you have it.

Complementary colour

These are colours that are opposite on the colour wheel. Placed next to each other, they enhance each other and make one another stand out. Mixing together any combination of complementary colours neutralises the other. So, when trying to camouflage something as an MUA, knowing your complementary combinations is vital. Are you trying to cover a dark purple bruise, for example? Add a little ochre or yellow on top of the bruise first to neutralise the purple, and it will make concealing a lot easier.

Triadic

This is a combination of three colours that are evenly spaced around the colour wheel. Take red, blue and yellow – these are evenly spaced and create a triadic combination. In a triadic combo, colours work harmoniously and are attractive to the eye. For example, Lidl’s logo.

Analogous

This is a series of colours on the wheel that are next to each other. For example, red, red-violet and violet. Creating a whole makeup using an analogous colour combo is super easy and it works every time.

Monochromatic

Now, take one shade and add either black (a shade), grey (a tone) or white (a tint). You will have a monochromatic colour combo. For instance, red, pink and maroon. They all use one colour as the base, but there are various tints, tones and shades within that combination.

Understanding colour theory adds an element of expertise to your makeup, and talking to a client and giving reasons for your colour choices asserts a creative authority and will help you create striking, smart and memorable makeup.

Carly Utting is a senior artist at makeup brand Mac. She studied Media Makeup before joining Mac in 2005, where she also works with Mac’s Artist Community to nurture the careers of fledgling and established makeup artists.

How can I explain the difference between serums and creams to clients?

To give a clear and practical answer about the differences, let’s first clarify some common myths. When I ask my students about serums, I get a range of answers.

Let’s critically examine some of these statements.

Myth: serums are more concentrated

The manufacturer determines the concentration of active ingredients in a cream or serum. For example, if a manufacturer creates a cream with 3% Matrixyl, what’s the difference between that and a 3% Matrixyl serum?

Many creams are formulated with active ingredients at the optimal concentrations for efficacy, as supported by clinical studies. A common belief is that serums have higher concentrations of active ingredients than creams, even if the cream contains the same actives. But why is that?

Let’s understand the term “therapeutic window” of active ingredients. If a vitamin, peptide or other ingredient has a therapeutic window of 3-5%, it means:

• At 2%, the ingredient won’t improve the skin.

• At 3%, it will start showing benefits.

• At 4%, the improvement will be slightly more pronounced, and at 5%, even more so.

• But this doesn’t mean that 10% will necessarily yield better results.

With active ingredients, more is not always better. The precise concentration delivers the results. If a manufacturer aims to ensure efficacy, trust that they’ll include the active concentration – whether in a cream, serum or ampoule.

So, what’s the difference between a 1% retinol cream and a 1% retinol serum?

Myth: serums have smaller molecules

Smaller molecules of what, exactly? The entire serum? Just the active ingredients? And why can’t a manufacturer use small molecules in a cream as well? The liquid, lightweight texture of a serum isn’t necessarily due to smaller molecules. In fact, not all of the cream or serum needs to penetrate deep into the skin – only the active ingredient(s) need to be absorbed. For instance, if the active ingredient is retinol, its size doesn’t change between a cream and a serum. This applies to both active and inactive ingredients.

Myth: serums help creams penetrate the skin

As a biologist, I’m not aware of any microscopic mechanisms that allow serums to bind large molecules and pull them into the skin. Similarly, there are no known methods to make molecules larger than 500 Daltons (the size limit for penetrating the stratum corneum) pass through the skin. For example, hyaluronic acid in a serum doesn’t penetrate the skin because of any special delivery properties of the serum.

In short, molecules penetrate the skin based on their size, whether they are in a cream or serum. The difference lies in texture or consistency. Serums are liquid, while creams have a richer texture. I’ve seen serums without any active ingredients and creams that are full of them.

Dr Ronit Segev is a biologist, skin researcher and founder of scientific skincare brand Biofor.

How do I improve my confidence in public speaking?

Have you ever been to a conference or educational event and thought, “I could do that?” Stepping onto a stage for the first time can be nerve wracking, but with the right mindset and preparation, anxiety can transform into excitement. When you love something deeply, the desire to share it with others takes over. Here are some tips to help new speakers turn their anxiety into excitement.

1. Embrace your passion

When you truly care about your topic, it shows. If the subject of your presentation is something you are passionate about, let that shine through. It will not only make your presentation more engaging but also help you overcome nervousness.

2. Prepare thoroughly

Preparation is key to feeling confident on stage. Spend ample time preparing your presentation, rehearsing your speech and familiarising yourself with the content. Knowing your material inside and out helps you deliver your message clearly and boosts your confidence. Consider practising in front of friends or colleagues and ask for feedback.

3. Start with a strong opening 

Your opening sets the tone for your entire presentation. Start with a strong, attention-grabbing introduction. Share a compelling story or a striking fact to draw in your audience. A strong opening can capture attention and make you feel more in control. Don’t just read the title of your presentation, create an opening hook.

4. Focus on connection, not perfection

It’s easy to get caught up in trying to deliver a perfect presentation. However, it’s more important to focus on connecting with your audience. Keep them engaged by asking questions. Tell a joke if it feels warranted, to get people to laugh with you, not at you. This not only keeps your audience interested but also makes your presentation more dynamic. Encouraging your audience to share their experiences and insights can make the session more interactive and enriching.

5. Be authentic 

The easiest thing to do when you’re presenting is to just be you. Authenticity resonates with people and helps you connect with your audience on a deeper level. Do not be afraid to share your unique perspective and experiences.

6. Manage your anxiety 

Feeling anxious before a presentation is normal. Find techniques that work for you to manage this anxiety. Deep breathing exercises and visualisation can be incredibly helpful. Visualise yourself succeeding and focus on the positive outcome. It’s okay to feel nervous; channel that energy into your presentation. Remember, no one knows you are nervous besides you.

7. Learn from each experience

Every speaking opportunity is a chance to grow. Reflect on what went well and what could be improved. Continuous improvement is key to becoming a better speaker.

9. Keep pushing yourself

Finally, keep pushing yourself to take on new speaking opportunities. The more you speak, the more comfortable and confident you’ll become. If you make just one connection, you are doing something right.

Ashley Moores is a nurse with over a decade of medical experience and three years in the aesthetics industry. She is also the host of aesthetics industry podcast The Silver Edition.