Nail tech notes

We asked five leading nail techs at the top of their game to share the answers to the questions they always get asked, and the top tips they’ve picked up over their careers

Metta Francis

Session manicurist and content creator Metta Francis, aka Nails by Mets, is passionate about nail care and nail health, which is why she’s often asked how to manage client expectations when they come in with damaged nails and expect an instant transformation.

“This is where your expertise comes into play. Educate your client and let them know you’re not a miracle worker and their nails will need to undergo a healthy nail journey,” she explains. “A nail is only as good as its foundation layer – but over time, once the nails are repaired, gel polish, builder gel and other polishes will last much longer.

“Make bespoke recommendations based on each client’s individual nail needs and consultation. Be confident – if they’ve booked in for a treatment that’s not compatible with the current state of their nails, let them know and advise what would be better (and any potential savings they may be making!)”

Throughout her career, Francis has crossed paths with several talented techs but one piece of advice stands out to her. “My CND educator, Anna Lee, or my ‘nail mama’ as I like to call her, told me ‘practice doesn’t make perfect, perfect practice does’.

“She gave me this advice around 10 years ago when I was in the early days of my career and what she meant was, make sure you’re practising the right way, not practising with ineffective methods.

“Invest in education and even one-to-one training and mentoring so someone can observe how you work and your current skills, and they can adjust or advise accordingly. You never know what tricks and tips you may pick up. I still invest in training every year despite being 13 years in the industry; you can never know everything.”

Arlene Hinckson

Chances are you’ve seen Arlene Hinckson’s work on a magazine cover or witnessed her nails on the red carpet, with celebrity clients including singers Céline Dion and Sam Smith, and actress Brie Larson. She is often asked how she approaches working with such big names – and sometimes some big egos.

But, whether you’re prepping an A-lister for a movie premiere or doing your bi-weekly session with a regular, Hinckson stresses the importance of good customer service, no matter who the customer is.

“Customer service is key. Watching the joy spread across my client’s face after a session always makes me feel really good,” she says. “I always treat my clients with respect. They could go anywhere, but they came to me so I make sure they know that I care and will take care of them. I am always nice, no matter how impolite a client behaves.”

It can be difficult to keep up customer service when dealing with a difficult client, so, if faced with a dilemma like this, Hinckson kills them with kindness to protect her own reputation.

“If they insist on treating me badly, I give the best session I possibly can then refuse to see them again afterwards, but I never carry on loudly or aggressively in any nail environment.

“It is important to maintain the respect I have for myself and my craft. My representation is key to conserving the reputation of the nail industry. I take it seriously.”

Kirsty Meakin

For Kirsty Meakin, who has amassed over 100 nail awards over her career, the question that is most often put to her surrounds choosing the right tools for acrylic application. “I’m always asked what brush I use for acrylic,” shares Meakin. “For advanced techs I recommend a size 10 or a size 12 brush that has a flatter hair tip. However, I always recommend a slightly smaller brush for beginners, so they aren’t overwhelmed by the brush size – smaller brushes are better for smaller bead pick-up. I use my ‘Oscar the Wild’ brush religiously. It’s a size 12 which is aimed at experienced nail techs.”

When it comes to moving up to a bigger brush, Meakin explains the benefits, sharing, “A slightly bigger brush will mean fewer beads are needed, making the acrylic application quicker. The quicker you work, the more profit you can make.”

As for her top tip, it’s one she picked up from making mistakes early in her career and learnt as she grew. “Using a metal file to create crisp side walls is a great technique you can use with gel polish, builder gel, acrylic, hard gel or acrygel nails. Using a metal file stops the nail tech from filing into the stress point of the side wall due to the file being thin but very strong.”

Chantelle Vermont

Session manicurist Chantelle Vermont, creator of the Clawgasmic nail network and host of its podcast, is constantly asked how to make chrome nails last. She suggests, “A little goes a long way, and, if you use too much and don’t thoroughly brush off the excess it can lead to the topcoat peeling away. Another tip is to cap the end and double up on the topcoat.”

Meanwhile, to reach success on social media, Vermont has a sage piece of advice. “It sounds cliché but be yourself. Put yourself out there on social media, your personality, a bit about yourself and your workspace. People buy from people who they feel a connection with.

“Perfect your craft but also shine your light. Be unapologetically you. You will attract more of your ideal clients this way too.”

Edyta Betka

Fashion, commercial and celebrity manicurist Edyta Betka, is known for working with big names including girl group Little Mix and actress Anya Taylor-Joy, and clients such as Chanel, Bulgari and Dior. She has over 19 years of industry experience, with a load of knowledge picked up over almost two decades as a nail tech.

With many hoping to take a similar career path to Betka, the manicurist is often asked about when, why and how she made the move to leave salon life for a freelance career. “In September 2018, I had to say no to three great opportunities in two weeks because I was working in the salon, which made me consider how, if this kind of work is finding me while I’m working in a salon, it may be a sign for me to go. I took the risk and handed in my one-month notice,” she explains.

Reflecting on the past few years as a freelancer, Betka shares, “I love being my own boss and I love my work even more. I’m able to work with so many talented creatives on many amazing projects, making new connections, meeting new people, being creative and travelling with and for work – something I’m hoping to do even more this year.”