Red alert

Red light therapy is a powerful tool in many beauty therapists’ treatment arsenals, but how does it actually work? Ellen Cummings takes a deep dive into the science behind the treatment

Red light therapy is one of the most popular beauty treatments out there for a number of reasons – it’s great as a standalone but it can also easily be added to other treatments, it’s low-effort on the part of the practitioner, it’s non-invasive and has no downtime, and clients’ results often speak for themselves.

The red light used in beauty devices comprises two parts of the electromagnetic spectrum – visible red light and near-infrared (also called infrared-A). Visible light is the part of the electromagnetic spectrum that the human eye can see, but while the human eye perceives visible light as one colour, it’s actually made up of a range of colours including red; something we can see when visible light travels through a prism.

Meanwhile, near-infrared is just past the point of being visible to the naked eye.

“There are two types of red light, namely warm and cold red light,” says Dr Alexander Wunsch, scientific consultant for JK Group. “In the context of beauty applications, cold red light is used. Cold red light is easiest to produce with LEDs and laser light sources.”

Red light therapy involves using LED devices to expose skin to low levels of red visible light and near-infrared light in order to stimulate cellular activity. “Visible red light, with a wavelength ranging from 600 nanometres to 700 nanometres, reaches approximately 8-10mm into skin tissue. This makes red light particularly helpful for addressing skin issues affecting the upper dermis and epidermal layers,” explains Ellie Clark, global account development and training specialist at Déesse Pro.

What does red light do?

Red light therapy has a diverse range of benefits for the skin, depending on application, including improving wound healing and blood circulation, reducing inflammation, tackling blemishes, acne and signs of ageing, cell renewal and more.

“A well-studied effect of red light is the stimulation of fibroblasts, which are responsible for the production of the collagen network and elastin synthesis in the skin,” comments Dr Wunsch.

“As red light and near-infrared have a high penetration depth, they are able to support and improve numerous cell-mediated skin functions in a gentle yet effective way.

“In addition to improved blood circulation, the most important mechanisms of action are the positive effects on the energy balance and metabolism in the intracellular and extracellular space.”

Dr Wunsch adds, “The effects on the mitochondria and the production of adenosine triphosphate (ATP) have been best investigated. However, as mitochondria are also involved in the production of hormones and antioxidants, corresponding effects are also observed here. For example, a number of ageing effects are attributed to the dysfunction of mitochondria, which explains the positive effects of red light in terms of tissue regeneration and skin rejuvenation.”

There’s been plenty of research into red light therapy, with the vast majority of scientific publications supporting its effectiveness. “If you search the most important scientific databases for the keywords ‘photobiomodulation’ and ‘low level light therapy (LLLT)’ – the scientific terms for the application of cold red light and near-infrared – you will get a total of around 100,000 hits. Studies have been published on this topic since the 1960s,” says Dr Wunsch.

How should red light be used?

How red light should be used depends on what you’re trying to treat, with Dr Wunsch saying that there are certain effective windows for the optimum effect; not all wavelengths and not all irradiance levels lead to the desired effects.

“In particular, the idea that higher intensity always improves the effect is a misconception,” he explains, recommending that the equipment is purchased from a recognised brand manufacturer “as compliance with applicable standards and norms as well as a guarantee of quality and well-founded advice can be ensured here”.

The optimum frequency of treatments can differ. Dr Wunsch comments, “In a study that I scientifically supervised, for example, two to three applications per week were carried out, with the duration of application being 15 to 20 minutes. As cold red light is generally very well tolerated, it is perfectly possible to continue with one to two applications per week on a regular basis after a more intensive initial phase.

“It is generally advisable to follow the device manufacturer’s instructions, as they will have the necessary information on the application parameters from which the dose and frequency of application can be derived. A trial session of three to five minutes is generally recommended for all light applications. If no undesirable effects occur within 24 hours of application, the actual application series can be started in accordance with the manufacturer’s recommendations.”

“As red light and near-infrared have a HIGH PENETRATION DEPTH, they are able to support and improve numerous cell-mediated skin functions in a GENTLE YET EFFECTIVE WAY ”

In general, skin which is more out of balance will see more obvious benefits from red light therapy than skin which is healthier. Short-term issues such as wound healing and inflammation reduction will see faster results than chronic skin concerns, which usually take long-term application to achieve lasting results.

It’s also important to prep the skin before treatments to maximise results, Clark explains, “Before red light therapy sessions, cleanse the skin thoroughly to remove any makeup, dirt or skincare products. Clean skin ensures better light penetration and maximises the effectiveness of LED light.”

Combination therapies

While red light therapy is a powerful treatment on its own, it also works well with other beauty treatments, making it a great add-on or finishing touch. Clark says: “Light therapy treatments can be seamlessly integrated with additional treatment protocols and all skincare ingredients to achieve optimal results.”

It’s often used alongside regular facials because it helps to increase absorption and penetration of active skincare ingredients, and also more intense treatments such as microneedling and peels because it helps to reduce inflammation.

The popularity of red light therapy is due in part to its near-universal tolerance. “Notably, LED therapy boasts an impeccable safety record with no serious adverse incidents recorded across over 1,700 publications,” says Clark.

However, this doesn’t necessarily mean it’s safe for all clients, so as always, it’s best to carry out a thorough consultation. “There is a group of autoimmune diseases that are summarised under the term ‘collagenoses’. In these diseases, red light therapy has a negative effect and would be contraindicated,” explains Dr Wunsch.

“In general, the advice and consent of the attending physician should be obtained for all manifest diseases. And – it cannot be said often enough – the right dose is the best guarantee for an optimum effect and you should be careful not to overdose by following the manufacturer’s instructions.”