Spotlight on... NAD+

NAD+ is the latest trending skincare ingredient to pique our interest. Kezia Parkins talks to the experts to find out what you need to know

What is it?

Present in all living cells, coenzyme NAD+ (nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide) plays a crucial role in various biological processes, including energy metabolism, DNA repair and regulatory cell signalling.

“Scientifically, NAD+ consists of two nucleotides: nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide,” explains chemical engineer and Skin Masterclass founder Cigdem Kemal Yilmaz.

“The ‘nicotinamide’ part of the molecule is derived from niacin, also known as vitamin B3. The ‘adenine’ part is a nucleotide base involved in DNA and RNA synthesis. These two components are linked by phosphate groups.”

“Think of it as a kind of currency that helps transfer energy between different chemical reactions in your body,” says Iain De Havilland, founder of clinic group and product NADclinic.

“Its involvement in metabolism, DNA repair and cell signalling means that without NAD, your cells wouldn’t be able to efficiently produce energy or carry out essential functions.”

With compromised levels of NAD+, skin cells are less able to replicate and function while the skin becomes less able to tolerate inflammation, oxidative stress and toxin release. A build up of these impaired cells can cause laxity, wrinkles, inflammation and a weakened skin barrier.

How does it work?

One of NAD+’s primary functions in skincare formulations is to target hyperpigmentation through its skin-lightening properties. “It does this by regulating melanin production, mitigating the skin’s inflammatory response and promoting cell renewal and repair processes,” says Kemal Yilmaz.

“This also helps maintain the integrity of skin cells and reduce the accumulation of DNA damage caused by environmental factors such as UV radiation and pollution.”

NAD+ is known to boost energy production, particularly in the mitochondria, which optimises cellular function, leading to improved skin vitality and resilience. It also has the ability to smooth the skin, reduce fine lines and wrinkles and enhance skin barrier function to protect against environmental stressors, moisture loss, redness, irritation and other signs of inflammation.

“NAD+ can support the overall health and appearance of the skin, by improving cellular health. This strategy promotes healthy skin from the inside out,” says Dr Nichola Conlon, a molecular biologist specialising in the study of cellular ageing and co-founder of NAD+ supplement Nuchido.

How should it be used?

NAD+ is an active ingredient, often added to serums, creams and other topical formulations designed to be applied directly to the skin as either a targeted treatment, or in combination with other ingredients to target multiple concerns or aspects of skin health.

NAD+ levels in our bodies naturally decline with age, which is thought to contribute to age-related changes in cells. In fact, some sources suggest that NAD+ levels have dropped to 50% by the time we reach our 40s. “So, by supplementing NAD+ in skincare, we can help to replenish the cellular levels to improve the overall health and appearance of the skin,” explains Kemal Yilmaz.

“These products typically contain stabilised forms of NAD+ that can penetrate the skin barrier and deliver the coenzyme to the underlying cells.”

As well as being used topically, formulations can also be used as part of facials, chemical peels and microneedling protocols to address specific skin concerns and increase the effectiveness of those treatments.

How can NAD+ be used internally?

NAD+ can also be administered intravenously or via oral supplement to benefit skin from the inside out.

“Supplementing NAD+ can particularly help support cellular energy production and overall health in older adults,” says De Havilland.

“Other factors such as pollution, UV radiation and poor diet can deplete our NAD+ levels, so supplementing can counteract this in those people that these things effect.

“It is tricky to include the NAD+ molecule in skincare formulations as it breaks down easily,” says Conlon, who believes the best way to keep your NAD+ levels topped up is orally with supplements.

NAD+ delivered via IV infusion is becoming increasingly popular with more and more clinics popping up offering the service to consumers.

“This can benefit our skin, as it can prevent the formation of wrinkles, fine lines and sagging skin,” says Conlon.

What can NAD+ be combined with?

As it’s incredibly versatile, combining or layering NAD+ with other skincare ingredients not only enhances its efficacy, but can also provide added benefits for the skin.

Kemal Yilmaz advises combining it with antioxidants such as vitamins C and E, resveratrol, and coenzyme Q10 to help neutralise free radicals and protect skin from premature ageing.

For hyperpigmentation, layering NAD+ over mandelic acid (also good for hyperpigmentation) is effective, and it synergises well in the same formula as alpha arbutin, kojic di-palmitate and azelaic acid.

“Pairing NAD+ with peptides like palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 (matrixyl) or copper peptides can enhance the skin-rejuvenating effects,” continues Kemal Yilmaz. “Incorporating it with humectants such as hyaluronic acid can boost hydration levels and reduce the appearance of fine lines.” She also recommends pairing NAD+ with retinoids to enhance skin renewal, ceramides to reinforce the skin barrier, alpha and beta hydroxy acids to promote cell turnover, and improve the absorption of NAD+ and other active ingredients, and, finally, niacinamide to help reduce inflammation.

While NAD+ is compatible with most skincare ingredients, there are a few that may interact negatively with it. “The concentration in a formula varies between 0.5% and 2%, and the stability of the ingredient is maintained when the pH of the final product is between 6-7.5, which means it cannot be integrated in the same formula with acids and LAA (L-ascorbic acid). However, it is safe to layer on top,” says Kemal Yilmaz.