News

Global beauty and anti-ageing market now worth £829bn

Beauty, personal care and anti-ageing is the strongest sector of the wellness market, and rose 4.1% annually between 2015 and 2017, to reach a value of $1,083 billion (£829bn), according to new data from the Global Wellness Institute (GWI). Meanwhile, spa was named the fastest-growing sector, with an annual growth rate of 9.8% and a value of $119bn (£91bn).

The total value of the global wellness economy recorded an annual growth rate of 6.4% between 2015 and 2017, to reach a market value of $4.2 trillion (£3.2 trillion), according to the GWI’s new 2018 Global Wellness Economy Monitor Report.

This is nearly twice as fast as the global economic growth during this time (3.6%), the report found, and the top revenue growth leaders from this time period (per annum) were: spa industry (9.8%), wellness tourism (6.5%), and wellness real estate (6.4%).

With wellness expenditures at $4.2 trillion, the sector is now more than half the size of the total global health market, which stands at $7.3 trillion (£5.6 trillion) and has put the wellness industry on the map as a big player, representing 5.3% of all global economic output.

The 10 sectors that make up the global wellness ecosystem are:

• Personal care, beauty and anti-ageing – $1,083bn (£829bn), a 4.1% annual growth rate

• Healthy eating, nutrition and weight loss – $702bn (£538bn), up 4.1%

• Wellness tourism – $639bn (£490bn), up 6.5%

• Fitness and mind-body – $595bn (£456bn), up 4.8%

• Preventive and personalised medicine and public health – $575bn (£441bn), up 3.7%

• Traditional & complementary medicine – $360bn (£276)

• Wellness real estate – $134bn (£102bn), up 6.4%

• Spa economy – $119bn (£91bn), up 9.8%

• Thermal/mineral springs – $56bn (£43bn), up 4.9%

• Workplace wellness – $48bn (£37bn), up 4.8%.

The report was released at the 12th annual Global Wellness Summit, which was held at Technogym Village in Cesena, Italy, in October.

Champneys to open sixth spa resort with Mottram Hall acquisition

Spa group Champneys has acquired Mottram Hall in Cheshire from QHotels and outlined plans for a £10 million refurbishment programme, including a £5 million redesign of the hotel’s current spa. The property is the latest addition to Champneys’ portfolio and the farthest North the group has ventured. The redesign of the 18th-century, Grade II-listed hotel and spa will include a 20m swimming pool, new wet and thermal experiences and 18 new treatment rooms.

Champneys owner Stephen Purdew said, “Mottram Hall gives our brand a broader geographical spread with a presence in the North-West.

It’s a fantastic property and we’re delighted to be adding it to our collection of properties within the Champneys Group. We’re now planning a considerable investment project which will take place over the next year.” Champneys’ current properties are mainly based in the south of England, with four spa resort locations at Forest Mere, Henlow, Springs and Tring, and six city spas in the South East; along with its hotel and spa at Eastwell Manor in Kent and spa onboard the Marella Explorer cruise ship.

NHF launches sister association for beauty

Industry trade association the National Hairdressers’ Federation (NHF) has launched the National Beauty Federation (NBF), a sister association for beauty businesses to provide specialist business support.

“We have a lot of members who do both hair and beauty, but we are very aware that beauty is a different industry and there are different challenges”, said NBF and NHF chief executive Hilary Hall. “However, if you run any small business the biggest headache is managing people; we have a lot of specialist support to offer in that area.”

The NBF will provide its members with business support, such as “legislation updates, employment law advice and any other business issues”, said Hall. The association has also put together a specialist health and safety toolkit for beauty salons because of the unique considerations of certain treatments.

Existing NHF members will have access to NBF resources at no extra cost. PB columnist Hellen Ward has been named beauty ambassador for the new association.

Londoners’ spend on spa deals triples in four years

Londoners’ spending on spa deals increased dramatically from £6.7m in 2014 to £18m this year, according to data from voucher website Wowcher.

In total, 1.17 million customers purchased spa days across the country during the 12 months to September 30, 2018, with a noticeable increase in sales during National Spa Week (September 10-17), when 14,700 spa deals were sold on Wowcher.

857,000 “spa-related” vouchers were purchased over the year, with 122,000 for day deals and 1,200 for overnight breaks.

Londoners were most interested in spa visits, spending £18m. Birmingham spent £1.5m, Manchester, £1.4m and Newcastle, £1m.

New JCCP framework replaces HEE standards

The Joint Council for Cosmetic Practitioners (JCCP) has created a Competency Framework that replaces the Health Education England (HEE) training recommendations.

HEE produced an education and training framework in 2015 that recommended a Level 4 qualification for advanced treatments such as microneedling and Level 7 for injectables.

The JCCP has now taken over this framework and released a revised version on its website, which reinforces the recent decision to remove therapists from its registers for injectables. A register of approved training providers has been launched and the first three to meet the requirements are: The Harley Academy, London; Northumbria University and Sally Durant Aesthetic Education and Training.

in brief

// Distributor Harpar Grace International has appointed Shelley Hepburn as head of spa UK. She will promote brands including Codage, Déesse Pro LED light therapy, Totally Derma and iS Clinical. Hepburn has previously run spas including Gaia and The Ned.

// Clinic group sk:n has taken over the renowned Cellite clinic in Cardiff. sk:n’s new clinic on Charles Street will be a merger of its existing operation at David Lloyd health club and Cellite, which has been open for 20 years. Cellite’s clinic director Dr Harryono Judodihardjo will remain at the new venture.

// Mavala has announced plans to support the Crisis at Christmas appeal this year by providing nail polishes and nail care accessories to help Crisis look after homeless people and give them a Christmas treat.

// The spa at Hoar Cross Hall in Staffordshire has launched a training programme called Reward, Improve, Sustaining Excellence (RISE) in a bid to attract new therapists. New recruits will work their way through Bronze, Silver and Gold levels.

// Blush + Blow hairstylists has launched Blush + Blow Skin Clinic in Fulham, London, offering skincare services including IPL, microdermabrasion, microneedling, chemical peels and more to its client base.

Algorithmic beauty set to be key 2019 trend

Trend forecaster The Future Laboratory has billed “algorithmic beauty” to be a key trend in 2019, taking over from the trend of natural, glowing skin that dominated this year.

While 2018 saw the rise of Korean beauty trends such as “glass skin”, algorithmic beauty will be inspired by technologies such as artificial intelligence and algorithms, which will be able to assess faces and create a personalised skincare and make-up plan.

The Future Laboratory researchers Jessica Smith and Rhiannon McGregor suggested that this is a shift from the recent focus on clean beauty and all-natural ingredients, and that as beauty technologies become more popular, social media, artificial intelligence and algorithms will shape a new ideal of flawlessness.

Key areas likely to be explored by beauty companies over the coming year include the diverse opportunities within the trend, such as the potential of facial recognition technology; artificial-intelligence-driven devices that can assess faces and provide continuous feedback on the efficacy of products; and new non-invasive procedures rooted in nanotechnology.

Smith and McGregor shared their latest findings on the biggest trends on the horizon for the $1 trillion (£764 billion) global beauty market at the Global Wellness Summit, held on October 6–8 in Italy.

Belfast spends big on skincare, while Coventry splashes most on spas

The biggest spenders on facial skincare in the UK live in Belfast and spend an average of £934, while the lowest spenders are in Edinburgh, splashing just £450 a head annually, according to new research. Statistics from credit website Totally Money uncovered the combined spending on beauty treatments and products, clothes and gyms, across the UK’s 30 biggest cities and discovered the average Brit spends £4,454 a year on their appearance, with Leeds residents topping the table at £7,000 per head, and Londoners second at £6,300.

When it comes to treatments, Coventry came out top for annual spend on spas, at £767 per person, with Aberdeen lowest at £98.

Coventry also topped the table for nail treatments, at £206 a year, while spend on make-up was highest in Leeds at £280 per person.

in brief

Holly-Mae Cottrell, a therapist at Reds Hair Company in Ross-on -Wye, won a gold medal at EuroSkills in Budapest, the international skills competition for young people. She was joined by 22 others from the UK in different trades who travelled to Hungary to compete in the competition, which is the regional heat of Worldskills.

// Distributor Bio Sculpture GB has changed its name to Re:New. The rebrand was implemented to equally represent all of the company’s brands and allow for future growth. Re:New Beauty will be the home of Bio Sculpture, Evo Gel and Essence in the UK. The team, owner, location and prices will remain the same.

// Park House Hotel and Spa in Sussex has joined Pride of Britain’s collection of independently owned luxury hotels. The family owned property is located in the heart of the South Downs National Park.

// Miiskin has become the first app to receive independent dermatological accreditation from the Skin Health Alliance. The app helps users to keep track of any changes to their skin to try and spot early signs of Melanoma.

// Laser Lipo has announced model Sam Fox (pictured) and Love Island’s Cara De La Hoyde as celebrity ambassadors for its non-surgical laser treatment Strawberry Lift. Both are promoting the treatment to sculpt the chin area.

Babtac partners with barbering association to drive regulation

In a bid to push for mandatory regulation for the beauty and hair industries, the British Association of Beauty Therapy and Cosmetology (Babtac) has joined forces with the Hair and Barber Council (HBC).

The alliance will see the two associations combine their influence to help improve professional standards, with plans in the pipeline for industry campaigns and initiatives to drive consumer awareness, as well as parliamentary representation, which will lobby for change. The beauty industry is largely unregulated in the UK, while the hair industry does have a self-regulatory framework but it is voluntary.

“We have been campaigning for many years for mandatory selfregulation of the industry, as has the HBC, and by forming this alliance we can add more weight to the cause”, said Babtac chair Lesley Blair.

“It is in every beauty, hair and barbering professional’s best interests to sign up to self-regulation, as it demonstrates that they are qualified and meeting or exceeding industry standards, while reducing the number of industry ‘rogue traders’ who are attracted by the low barriers to entry in the market. Ultimately, it will increase client safety and consumer care.”

Cheshire spa hotel launches beauty bank to tackle hygiene poverty

Spa hotel The Park Royal in Cheshire set up a Beauty Bank collection point, where customers donated new and unopened beauty products which were gifted to Warrington Foodbank.

The initiative was run during National Spa Week 2018 (September 10-17), and the spa team topped up the donations with a hamper of products from its lead product house Espa. “The foodbank supports so many people and families who are in real crisis and might otherwise go without essential products that we often take for granted”, said general manager Annie Brown.

Other beauty businesses have spoken out in support of the initiative, with 62% of beauty salons and 65% of spas in this month’s Insider survey saying they would consider running a similar initiative (see page 39).

in brief

Wellness brand Bamford has opened a flagship at Brompton Cross in London. Situated on Draycott Avenue, Bamford Haybarn is a retail and treatment space, with each floor representing one of the brand’s wellbeing philosophies – move, breathe and heal.

// Michelle Warburton has been appointed operations manager for skincare brand AQ Skin Solutions. Warburton has worked in the beauty, wellness and aesthetics industry for more than 15 years, for brands such as Voya and Harpar Grace.

// Spa/Clinic by 111SKIN has partnered exclusively with the Bulgari Spa in London to provide a signature treatment menu combining the brand’s aesthetic knowledge and expertise with the luxury of spa.

// New beauty and fragrance distributor Phoenix Beauty has launched. Founded by industry professionals Amy and Nick Buckley and Margie Shiers, the company will offer sales management, marketing and logistical and commercial support.

// HD Brows has collaborated with Instagram artist Sara Shakeel, famous for her #glitterstretchmarks artwork, for its 2018 Christmas campaign. The make-up brand has also launched retail packages at more accessible price points for brow techs.

Finishing Touches launches micropigmentation safety campaign

Semi-permanent make-up brand and training provider Finishing Touches Group (FTG) has launched a campaign to raise safety standards around the procedure and increase awareness of safe needle practice.

FTG chief executive Dawn Forshaw is leading the campaign, which aims to highlight the dangers of the counterfeit needle industry, after witnessing an increase in modified and fake needles being sold in the UK.

Fake needles often look identical to those from reputable suppliers, and come in packaging that states they are sterile, even if they are not, said Forshaw, who wants to raise awareness of these dangers and promote safe needle practice, such as only using devices that are sterilised, sealed and have a visible safety membrane.

“We need to draw the industry’s attention to these dangerous replica needles and create greater awareness of the counterfeit needle industry”, she said.

FTG will invite select semipermanent make-up equipment suppliers to support the Safety in Micropigmentation campaign, offering a logo to display on their websites to signify the sale of genuine needles.

Managing millennials among topics addressed at Shortcuts user conference

Salon software brand Shortcuts unveiled Google Reserve, the latest addition to its software, at a user conference in London on October 1. The new tool lets clients book appointments directly through Google. Shortcuts gathered its salon users together with industry experts at the event to discuss how technology is impacting the future of the beauty industry, and how the guest experience in salons is changing.

Delegates heard from names including Carole Taylor, founder of salon training service Clientwave, Hellen Ward, PB columnist and managing director of Richard Ward Hair & Metrospa, and Barry Stephens, director of salon call management tool Mutu. Topics included salon branding and how to adapt management styles to work with millennials.

Caudalie partners with London mobile spa service

French vinotherapy brand Caudalie has partnered with mobile spa service CityLux to offer clients in central London two of its treatments.

The brand’s Vinoperfect Radiance Facial and Resveratrol Lift Facial have been added to CityLux’s menu, each lasting 55 minutes. CityLux therapists visit clients at home and in hotel rooms from 9am until “late”.

diary dates

// Indie Beauty Expo

October 24–25

The Old Truman Brewery, London Exhibition for independent beauty brands attended by buyers, press and industry professionals. apply@indiebeautyexpo.comindiebeautyexpo.com

// Spa Life

November 13–14

Hilton Birmingham Metropole Hotel, NEC, Birmingham Spa conference for operators and suppliers with speed dating-style meetings and mini expo. 01268 745892 spa-life.co.uk

// Skin Microbiome Congress London

November 14–15

ILEC Conference Centre, Ibis London Earls Court Presentations on microbiome research in dermatology and consumer trends. 020 3696 2920 skinmicrobiomecongresseu. com

// FHT 2018 Conference and Awards

November 29

The King’s Fund, London Conference with talks on research and education in integrated healthcare, followed by awards ceremony. 02380 624350 fht.org.uk

// Spatex 2019

January 29-31

Ericsson Exhibition Hall, Ricoh Arena, Coventry International spa and pool exhibition with seminars and new product showcase. 01264 358558 spatex.co.uk

// Professional Beauty GCC 2019

February 17-18

Festival Arena, Dubai The fifth edition of Professional Beauty in the Middle East, with a wide range of exhibitors and live stages. +971 (0)4 375 7300 professionalbeauty.ae