Ask the experts

Our beauty experts answer your questions about every aspect of running a salon or spa business

What’s the difference between ombré and hyper-realism brows?

When it comes to semi-permanent brow make-up, there are different procedures and styles that create different appearances, from a fuller brow to a fluffier and more natural looking style. It’s important to understand the differences between these styles, which skin type they suit best and the life span of these procedures.

Ombré brows

One of the most popular SPMU styles is ombré brows, which is a shading technique that mimics makeup to create a fuller look and enhance or improve the shape of the natural brows. Ombré brows leave a light layer of pigment at the fronts of the brows to allow the gradual build of colour towards the tails, creating a softer and more harmonising look on the face. This procedure is suitable for all skin types, although dry skin would hold the pigment more aggressively compared to oily skin.

Skin type is an extremely important factor to take into consideration when helping a client to decide which procedure to go for. Even though ombré is generally universal, and we wouldn’t turn away a client for ombré purely due to them having oily skin, it’s important to inform the client that their brows will fade quicker than a client who has combination or dry skin so they will need to have more frequent maintenance.

Hyper-realism brows

For clients with dry skin, both ombré and hyper-realism can be performed, depending on the client’s wishes.

Hyper-realism derives from the traditional microblading technique, where a small blade is dipped into pigment and hairstrokes are bladed into the brows. Hyper-realism uses digital machines that measure the depth of the pigment implantation and create the hairstrokes with a tiny 1 liner needle. The beauty of this treatment is that it can be as natural or as filled in as you wish. It’s a superbuildable brow style, and one that can be tailored for all.

For clients that usually have longer hair strands and dry skin, I would recommend hyper-realism because the hairstrokes and natural hair strands blend perfectly, creating a very natural but fuller and fluffier appearance.

Remember, the natural brows and skin type come into play when your client is choosing the best treatment for them. Therefore, it’s best to carry out a consultation before deciding to go ahead with any treatment.

Even though the brows will last for one to four years, depending on skin type, yearly maintenance is required to keep the colour and shape fresh. Clients with oily skin tend to come back for top-ups more often but this can vary depending on multiple factors including UV exposure, exercise and sauna use.

Handan Keser is a cosmetic tattoo specialist who offers a variety of SPMU treatments as well as professional development opportunities for fellow SPMU artists, with locations in Edmonton and Canary Wharf, London.

How do I tell the difference between inflamed skin and a stripped acid mantle?

Over the last five years, I have noticed a huge rise in the number of clients suffering from inflamed skin. As practitioners, it’s important that we understand the signs and symptoms and how to differentiate this from a stripped acid mantle.

Modern lifestyles have led to us consume toxic particles all day. Processed foods, sugar and pollution are all toxic to our system over time, but it’s not just what we eat or absorb but also what we create ourselves. When we are stressed, we create toxins in our body, compromising our immune system. Over time, this creates inflammation – our body’s protective response to try to remove harmful stimuli and begin the healing process.

The skin will always reflect what’s happening internally, and this inflammation eventually manifests on the skin as small, inflamed bumps, looking like a slight rash, with papules and pustules appearing along the lower cheek area. Inflamed skin can also be warm to the touch.

In comparison, a stripped acid mantle can present as multiple skin conditions showing on the face: dryness and sensitivity on the cheeks, and excessively oily t-zone and breakouts on the perioral area. Many practitioners will know the cause well: overuse of products and/or incorrect products for the skin type, which lead to the pH of the skin changing daily.

Do you ever find yourself confused as to which condition your client is presenting with? This is understandable because a build-up of inflammation can cause an impaired acid mantle, so the two can overlap. The inflammation means the body cannot effectively create the acid mantle on the skin to protect and maintain hydration, leading to the skin becoming sensitive and reactive. This will, therefore, be observed on both inflamed skin and impaired barriers.

Treating inflamed skin requires a different approach to a stripped acid mantle. When combating a stripped acid mantle, you need to repair the pH of the skin by cutting down and changing the products the client is using.

I find aloe vera amazing for repairing the pH of the skin quickly. I have often advised clients with longstanding reactivity and sensitivity to use only alcohol-free aloe vera for two weeks and observed dramatic improvements. However, if we use this treatment method for inflamed skin, the skin will calm down temporarily, but the inflammation will continue. So, what’s the best approach?

Our first step is identifying the condition through an in-depth skin consultation. I find asking the client how their skin feels after using certain products often helps them illuminate the issue themselves. This, paired with educating the client about inflammation, helps them to make lifestyle changes that help the treatments go further.

In terms of homecare, the aim is to protect the skin from the outside through gentle products, and I also suggest working with a nutritionist to refer patients. This will ensure the patient is effectively treating the skin condition internally as well as externally, which is the only way to successfully tackle inflamed skin.

Annalouise Kenny is the founder and chief executive of Skin Philosophy, which has training centres for skin education and advanced treatment techniques across the UK and Ireland.

How can I incorporate the principles of biohacking to help clients achieve their goals?

Biohacking can significantly enhance beauty through various approaches, including natural and high-tech methods. The key beauty benefits of biohacking focus around sunlight, healthy living, mindfulness, sleep, diet and skincare:

Reduced puffiness: Adequate rest gives a more refreshed look.Balanced hormones: Sleep supports hormonal balance, which is crucial for maintaining healthy skin and hair.

1. Sunlight Vitamin D production: Adequate exposure to sunlight boosts vitamin D levels, which is essential for skin health and immune function.Mood enhancement: Sunlight increases serotonin levels, improving mood and reducing stress, which can positively affect appearance.Natural glow: Moderate sun exposure can give skin a healthy, natural glow. Always protect against overexposure with sunscreen to prevent damage.

2. Healthy living Natural diets: Eating whole, unprocessed foods can improve skin, hair and overall health.Physical activity: Engaging in regular, varied physical activity, such as walking, running and lifting, promotes muscle tone and skin health.Natural rhythms: Aligning lifestyles with natural circadian rhythms (such as waking with the sun and sleeping after sunset) enhances sleep quality and overall vitality.

3. Mindfulness Stress reduction: Practices like meditation, deep breathing and yoga reduce cortisol levels, preventing stress-induced skin issues.Improved focus and wellbeing: Mindfulness increases self-awareness and mental clarity, contributing to a more relaxed appearance.

4. Sleep Skin regeneration: Quality sleep allows for cellular repair and regeneration.

5. Diet Nutrient-rich foods: Consuming a diet rich in vitamins, minerals, antioxidants and healthy fats supports skin elasticity, hair strength and overall beauty.Hydration: Proper hydration from water and hydrating foods maintains skin moisture and plumpness.Anti-inflammatory foods: Including anti-inflammatory foods (such as berries, leafy greens, and fatty fish) can reduce skin redness and irritation.

6. Skincare Routine and products: Using highquality skincare products tailored to your clients’ skin can address specific concerns like acne, dryness or signs of ageing.Consistency: A consistent skincare routine, including cleansing, treatments and protection with SPF, ensures optimal skin health.Red light therapy: This can promote collagen production.

William Foley is a celebrity facialist and aesthetician with 15 years’ experience including collaborations with global skin and spa brands. He has also been a finalist at the Professional Beauty Awards and Aesthetic Medicine Awards.

How can I improve my services to attract and retain more clients?

Maintaining a strong client base amid economic uncertainties and evolving industry trends can be challenging, but it’s essential for a successful beauty business.

As beauty professionals dedicated to delivering exceptional client experiences, we understand the importance of not only attracting new clients but also nurturing lasting relationships with existing ones.

As an educator, I frequently discuss strategies to both attract new clients and keep existing ones coming back, despite competing financial priorities. I’ve explored various ways to offer more value, combining treatments with luxurious extras that not only pamper clients but also keep them coming back for more.

Simple ways to increase value

Cost-effective touches that enhance the client journey from start to finish can make a significant difference. Ensuring clients feel they’re getting excellent value is pivotal for long-term success. Here are some ideas:

• Time is precious; clients should never feel rushed during their treatments – it’s their dedicated time to unwind and rejuvenate. They are paying for your time, after all.

• Building trust is paramount. Clients return when they feel genuinely cared for and know their skincare is in expert hands. Clients often affectionately call me their “fairy facemother”, a testament to the trust and loyalty nurtured through personalised care and for my knowledge and advice.

• Comfort is key – perhaps a weighted blanket or a spritz of a calming pillow spray to enhance relaxation and signify the start of their treatment journey. I adore the Tranquillity Pillow Spray from Evolve Organic Beauty, and so do my clients. They often purchase it at the end of their treatment to recreate the calming, spa-like experience at home.

• Incorporating techniques like facial massages with tools such as gua sha or ice globes can enhance even your more advanced facial treatments, heloing to ease clients into relaxation.

• Creating personalised take-home packages, like mini products and sheet masks, allows clients to extend their spa experience at home – and everyone loves a thoughtful gift.

• Competitive pricing isn’t just about undercutting others; it’s about valuing your expertise and service. When clients receive exceptional care, they’ll gladly invest in quality, becoming ambassadors for your business through word of mouth.

By prioritising client comfort and personalised care, you’ll build a loyal clientele that appreciates and advocates for your services. These straightforward tips are inexpensive yet can earn you a reputation for providing five-star service.

Gemma Halil is an advanced aesthetician with over 20 years’ experience in the industry. She is the lead educator for cosmeceutical skincare brand pHformula and also works with other professional brands.