Q&A
The antioxidant advantage
Dr Des Fernandes, founder of Environ and pioneer in vitamin A skincare, tells us how a moderate SPF combined with a potent antioxidant profile can offer a sophisticated approach to UV protection
Your new launch focuses on moderate SPF and antioxidants. Why do you recommend this combination for skin health?
“UVA rays create free radicals, which creates an automatic need for antioxidants to neutralise that potential damage. Vitamin E and vitamin C account for 80% of the antioxidant activity in the skin, but you also need others like lutein, lycopene, and beta-carotene. If you supply enough vitamin C and E, you actually increase the co-enzyme Q10 levels in the skin. I believe the future of sun care must move toward combining reliable UV filters with a greater use of antioxidants to ‘future-proof' the skin.”
There is a common perception that a higher SPF is always superior. Why do you believe SPF 20 is sufficient?
“Lower SPFs can be a hard sell because people have been conditioned to believe they aren't effective. However, research has shown for years that an SPF of 15, when applied correctly, already offers very high levels of protection. We get convinced into thinking a 30 or 50 is significantly better, but an SPF of 15 already protects you 100% of what it is capable of – a 30 can’t protect you 150%. The goal is to encourage proper, regular application of a comfortable factor rather than relying on a single high-number application that the user might think lasts all day.”
Why do you think SPF 50 is so widely recommended?
“It is often a marketing story; people have greater confidence in a 50 because they believe if gives a full day of protection, but no sunscreen does that. By using a slightly lower factor, we can focus on the quality of the formulation and the ease of reapplication. If you are in the sun continuously, you must reapply every 90 minutes to two hours to maintain the surface protection because that rubs off. In our new formulation, we ended up with an SPF 20 by creating a better film that is easier to spread evenly, without needing to increase the concentration of chemical filters. I use organic sunscreen materials for about SPF 4 or 5, while the rest of the protection is made up of titanium dioxide, a physical blocker. We revised the formula to ensure it is easier to spread, which is a significant advancement because a product that is pleasant to use is more likely to be reapplied.
For skin professionals advising busy clients, how can they get them to reapply?
“This is why we need skincare professionals. A professional can look at the client's lifestyle and explain that if you are in the sun continuously, you must reapply every hour and a half to remain safe. However, if you are just moving between indoor environments, your protection lasts longer. I also recommend creams enriched with Vitamin A, which acts as a natural UV absorber, providing an extra layer of protection. It's about having a 'belt and braces' approach to skin health.”
You’ve often mentioned "future-proofing" the skin. Where does vitamin A fit into this?
“I use cosmetic creams enriched with vitamin A, which acts as a natural UV absorber, providing an extra layer of protection. This is where the expertise of a therapist is essential; they can educate the client on why we need these vitamins alongside our SPF.
"If we supply the skin with the right antioxidants and vitamin A, we are supporting its natural defences. We have to reverse 40 years of training that suggests a high SPF number is the only thing that matters, and instead focus on a complete protective strategy.”