Understanding ENZYMES

Used in professional skin treatments and homecare, enzymes have a powerful role to play in exfoliation, brightening and fighting inflammation. Kezia Parkins gets the expert lowdown

Enzymes are proteins that speed up chemical reactions in living organisms. In skincare, they work by breaking down the bonds between dead skin cells and healthy skin. They are often described as the PacMan of skincare for their penchant for munching on dead skin cells for gentle exfoliation. “These biological agents (natural proteins) catalyze multiple biochemical reactions in all living beings,” says Dr Christian Jurist, spa skincare brand Pevonia’s medical director of global education.

“In the human body, they are involved in many essential processes necessary to sustain life, from digestive action, to converting components, to regulating metabolism and even neutralising free radicals.”

They can be derived or extracted from many natural sources, including microorganisms, animals and plants, but in skincare they are most commonly sourced from fruits, vegetables and seeds. “Enzymes taken from fruits like papaya, pineapple and even pumpkin are powerful yet gentle exfoliants that break down dead skin cells without the harshness of traditional scrubs or chemicals, making them ideal for clients with sensitive skin or those prone to irritation,” says Hannah White, head of education at professional skincare brand Monuskin.

“If you want safe, natural and effective exfoliation, incorporating a fruit-based acid exfoliant has a huge appeal to clients who are looking for gentle, natural facials and skincare options, and they’re not detrimental to the environment like microbeads.”

Enzyme varieties

The most-used enzymes in skincare include:

Papain: Derived from papaya, papain is known for its ability to dissolve keratin in dead skin cells, promoting cell turnover and revealing fresher, smoother skin underneath.

Bromelain: Extracted from pineapple, bromelain also dissolves keratin while helping to reduce inflammation.

Pumpkin enzymes: Rich in vitamins A and C, these enzymes not only exfoliate but also provide antioxidant benefits. are gentle, they can be a great option for those with acne-prone skin who cannot tolerate harsher exfoliants.

Protease: An enzyme that breaks down proteins into smaller peptides or amino acids, facilitating smoother skin texture.

Skincare benefits

One of the things that makes enzymes a great tool in skincare is their ability to target only the dead skin cells on the surface without disrupting the skin’s natural moisture barrier or harming living cells like more abrasive exfoliants.

“They are likely the easiest aids for meaningful exfoliation and skin smoothing,” adds Jurist. “They work as a great tool to take professional skin services to the next level and can be adapted to all skin types and conditions.

“In skincare, enzymes are commonly used as part of facial treatments for the purpose of exfoliation of the stratum corneum, aiding in skin smoothing, lightening, radiance and other benefits. Enzymes achieve those results through a ‘digestive’ action or the breakdown of superficial (dead) cells, allowing newer and deeper cells to surface and deliver a refreshed skin look.”

Exfoliation: Enzymes help break down the keratin protein found in dead skin cells, making it easier to slough them off. Unlike physical exfoliants (which can be abrasive and cause microtears in the skin), enzymes do not involve friction, reducing the risk of irritation.

Glow giving: By removing the layer of dead cells, enzymes reveal fresher skin. This can lead to a more radiant complexion, as new skin cells reflect light more evenly.

Anti-ageing: “Fruit enzymes help accelerate cell renewal, which can improve the appearance of lines and wrinkles,” adds White. “By promoting a smoother skin surface, they contribute to a more youthful-looking complexion.”

How can pros use them for their clients?

“Professionals can incorporate enzymes during the initial steps of a facial; for example, after cleansing the face and to prepare the surface of the skin for more advanced steps, such as penetrating a serum, performing a massage, or applying a mask,” says Jurist. “Sometimes enzymes are applied under steam to enhance their action.”

For ease of use and flexibility, enzymes are created in different forms – powders, creams and freeze-dried, so it is important to follow the appropriate directions from the manufacturer regarding their preparation and use.

“It’s also necessary to highlight the need to neutralise and remove enzymes very well before continuing with the next steps of a facial treatment, as to avoid potential skin irritation in some instances,” adds Jurist.

Layering enzymes

Enzymes can be layered with many ingredients safely within a facial, and others with caution:

Hyaluronic acid: White advises layering with hyaluronic acid serums or moisturisers to lock in moisture and plump the skin. “Skin is going to be hugely receptive as that layer of dead skin has been gently stripped away,” she adds.

Brightening: “Over time, enzyme-based products can also help fade hyperpigmentation and dark spots,” says White. “By promoting cell turnover, these enzymes help fade discolouration, leading to a more uniform skin tone.”

Vitamin C: “Fruit enzymes pair well with vitamin C, enhancing its brightening effects,” continues White. “After exfoliation, vitamin C serums can further reduce hyperpigmentation and protect against free radicals.”

Improvement in skin texture: Clients with rough or uneven skin texture can benefit from the smoothing effects of fruit enzymes. Regular enzyme treatments help to refine the skin’s surface, making it softer and more even.

Niacinamide: Layering niacinamide after a fruit enzyme treatment can help soothe the skin, reduce inflammation, and improve the skin barrier. White says, “This combination is excellent for acne-prone or sensitive skin.”

Anti-inflammatory properties: Enzymes like bromelain from pineapples have anti-inflammatory effects, making them beneficial for reducing redness, irritation, and puffiness, particularly in sensitive skin types.

Peptides: Following an enzyme treatment with peptide-rich products can enhance skin repair. “Peptides boost collagen production, helping to firm and smooth skin, making this combination ideal for anti-ageing,” says White.

Acne prevention: “Enzymes help declog pores inside and out, facilitating deep skin cleansing and extractions, which are staple steps of facials,” says Jurist. Since they

Moisturisers: A hydrating moisturiser is essential after fruit enzymes to restore skin’s moisture balance. “Choose one with ingredients like ceramides, glycerine, or natural oils to nourish and protect freshly exfoliated skin,” adds White.

SPF: White stresses the importance of a broad-spectrum sunscreen the day after using fruit enzyme products: “Exfoliation makes skin more sensitive to UV rays, so SPF is crucial to protect against sun damage.”

AHAs/BHAs (with caution): “For more intensive exfoliation, fruit enzymes can be layered with AHAs or BHAs. This combination can be effective for treating texture or deep hyperpigmentation, but it’s vital to monitor the client’s skin tolerance to avoid irritation,” White concludes.