RADICAL thinking

Antioxidants are essential in professional skincare. Ellen Cummings gets the expert lowdown on how to use them to elevate your treatment results

Antioxidants are one of the most important elements of an effective topical skincare routine, offering a shield against free radicals and environmental stressors that can wreak havoc on the skin. As Smita Ahluwalia, a skin specialist, holistic therapist and PB Awards judge, puts it, “Antioxidants are like superheroes for the skin. They help to protect our skin from the harmful effects of oxidation.” But what exactly are antioxidants, and how do they work?

The science behind antioxidants

On a cellular level, antioxidants protect the skin by neutralising free radicals, which are unstable molecules that can damage cells by stealing electrons from other molecules, a process that causes oxidative stress.

Annalouise Kenny, founder and chief executive of Skin Philosophy, explains, “Atoms (molecules) become unstable when they lose electrons in their outer shell; they then become free radicals. An antioxidant will donate the electrons to free radicals to neutralise them.” Kenny’s favourite analogy is to think of it like a single man at a disco, disrupting couples on the dancefloor, and antioxidants being the peacemakers, stabilising the situation and restoring harmony.

Free radicals are everywhere – they’re produced by the body’s natural metabolism, but external factors like pollution, UV rays and cigarette smoke will accelerate their formation. These free radicals can damage DNA, cell membranes and proteins, leading to premature ageing, pigmentation issues and inflammation. This is where antioxidants step in to protect the cells.

How to choose the best antioxidants for your clients

Beauty therapists play a key role in helping clients fight oxidative stress and maintain healthy skin with in-salon treatments and homecare advice. But with so many antioxidants available, how should therapists decide which ones to use? Kenny advises looking for well-formulated products backed by clinical trials.

“Antioxidants need to penetrate the skin and keep having an effect once they’ve penetrated. This is not easy to achieve, and only well-formulated skincare will do it.”

For clients new to antioxidants, or those with sensitive skin, Ahluwalia recommends starting with gentler options like niacinamide (vitamin B3) or vitamin E due to their anti-inflammatory properties. “I look at the client’s skin concerns and decide on an antioxidant that will help to improve these concerns,” she says. For example, our experts say clients with ageing or pigmentation issues benefit most from vitamin A, while smokers and sun-damaged skin will see the biggest improvement from antioxidants in general, as free radical damage is more prevalent in these cases.

There are numerous antioxidants, each with their own benefits. Ahluwalia highlights some of the most popular, including:

• Vitamin C: Known for its brightening effect, collagen stimulation and UV protection, vitamin C is an all-rounder that targets signs of ageing, pigmentation and environmental damage.

• Niacinamide: This ingredient improves the skin’s barrier function, reduces inflammation and helps with uneven skin tone.

• Vitamin A: A powerhouse for promoting cell regeneration, reducing wrinkles and boosting collagen production.

• Vitamin E: A great skin healer that also improves moisture retention and soothes irritated skin.

• Ferulic acid: Often combined with other antioxidants like vitamins C and E to enhance their stability and effectiveness.

• Glutathione: A potent antioxidant known for its brightening effects and anti-ageing properties, especially helpful for inflamed or pigmented skin.

One of the great things about antioxidants in skincare is that they can be combined to target multiple skin concerns. For example, combining vitamin C with ferulic acid or vitamin E boosts the effectiveness of both, providing enhanced protection against free radicals. “Vitamin C and E work well together because they combat different types of free radicals,” explains Kenny. “Vitamin C is water-soluble, while vitamin E is fat-soluble, so together they can protect different areas of the skin.”

Ahluwalia also says that that pairing antioxidants with non-antioxidant ingredients like hyaluronic acid can improve both hydration and antioxidant delivery, further enhancing the skin’s overall health and appearance.

Using antioxidants in treatments

Beauty therapists can integrate antioxidant skincare into various facial treatments to elevate results and further protect clients’ skin. Ahluwalia suggests using products rich in vitamins C and E during treatments like peels, masks and post-procedure serums. “For example, peels containing vitamin C can reduce the harshness of the peel and speed up skin recovery. Antioxidant-rich serums used post-treatment can enhance collagen production and neutralise free radicals.”

Advanced treatments like microneedling also pair well with antioxidants. The tiny channels created allow antioxidant serums to penetrate deeper into the skin. “Using antioxidants during skin needling improves their efficacy while also speeding up skin healing,” says Kenny.

Other modalities like laser treatments and LED therapy can boost the absorption of antioxidants, making them more effective. After a laser treatment or LED session, the skin is more receptive to topical treatments, allowing antioxidants to penetrate more deeply and provide longer-lasting benefits. While antioxidants are generally safe and beneficial, it’s important to use them correctly.

Beauty therapists should be mindful when combining antioxidants with other active ingredients, particularly after treatments where the skin barrier is compromised. Kenny advises, “Post treatment, it is very important to rebalance the pH and not use ingredients that are not made to penetrate the skin.”

Educating clients

While in-salon treatments are a great way to introduce antioxidants, it’s important to educate clients on how to incorporate these ingredients into their daily routines for lasting benefits. Although many clients are becoming increasingly knowledgeable about skincare, some are still unaware of the importance of antioxidants in preventing premature ageing and maintaining overall skin health.

Kenny suggests that beauty therapists can emphasise antioxidants’ preventive role, especially for clients who don’t currently have visible skin issues but want to protect their skin for the future. She says, “Antioxidants are silent fighters that prevent free radical damage, so it’s important as a prevention even in skin that is not suffering from a condition.”

The experts agree that therapists should recommend products that contain well-known antioxidants like vitamin C for brightening, vitamin E for healing and niacinamide for calming and hydration, and ensure clients start with mild formulations before introducing more potent combinations.

Ahluwalia suggests giving clients post-treatment homecare kits that include antioxidant serums and moisturisers to continue the healing process and protect skin from further damage.