ask the EXPERTS

How should I prepare a client’s skin before their peel treatment?

Firstly, connect with your client and complete an in-depth consultation, in person or virtually. A thorough discussion with the client will help assess their current skin condition. Generally speaking, healthy skin is less likely to experience adverse reactions to a chemical peel. Cracked or dehydrated skin allows chemical peel agents to penetrate further, which can intensify stinging and burning. So, prescribe the proper products to repair barrier function and increase hydration. Having skin in the best possible condition can improve its tolerance to the peel and facilitate recovery.

Many clients can benefit from preliminary treatments or products that “prime” the skin, helping to prepare it for the high activity of a chemical peel - particularly if they are new to peels. Priming with at-home peels or other exfoliating agents helps to acclimate the skin and ensure that the client receives the best possible results from their peel.

Any treatment that thins the stratum corneum increases the permeability of the epidermis and the speed of penetration of AHA. Tretinoin, AHA creams/serums and exfoliants are all examples of products that will allow the acids in the peel to penetrate more deeply. Be sure that clients observe the rules in relation to exfoliant-free days pre-peel so that the skin tolerates it well. This varies according to the type of exfoliant and product.

I recommend that a client reduces direct UV exposure - both natural and artificial - and applies daily SPF sunscreen in the two weeks leading up to a peel to ensure melanin production is at baseline according to their skin type. This helps reduce the risk of hyperpigmentation developing post-peel. Clear advice and modifications should be presented on everything from retinoid use to scheduling correctly around other cosmetic procedures and treatments.

Effectively managing skin recovery is key to a great result with chemical peels. This is dependent on what is done before, during and after the peel - it is not just about selecting the right acid. Set up for results by putting the right procedures in place and you will reap the benefits, not only in results but in a loyal client following, too.

Janine Da Costa is a training executive for Dermalogica and teaches her skincare knowledge within the brand.

How can I make lipstick last for my clients on their wedding day?

It can be difficult to get lip colour to last on a client’s wedding day but there are a few insider tips you can try. Matte lipsticks can stay all day but while the finish might look great on Instagram, it can look old fashioned and ageing in real life.

The first trick is to use a really good lip liner. The wax-based ones are best as they help the lipstick last a lot longer, and the lipstick itself shouldn’t be too satin. To improve longevity, you can apply one layer of lipstick, blot with a tissue and then apply a second layer and blot again, which will help the pigment to last on the lips.

Another trick to try on clients is putting a bit of powder on the lips. Take a tissue and tear it in half, so it is one ply, and then place it over the lips. Then apply powder, and repeat the process three times. This was a tip Marilyn Monroe used to make her lips look luscious and plump, but also to help the colour last for a long time.

It’s also good to have a bridesmaid carry a lipstick in the same colour, so that they can be on hand for touch-ups during the day. Some people who have got married recently have had to wear a mask, so you might not want to use lipstick on these brides, or just use lipstick afterwards.

If the bride does want to wear a lipstick on her big day, then consider using a non-transfer formula with a small amount of gloss so it looks more natural.

Mimi Lomax is a make-up artist and hair stylist who specialises in weddings, TV, fashion, editorial and commercial make-up.

How do I recommend SPF for clients with sensitive skin?

There are no hard-and-fast rules for finding the best sunscreen, but there is a little bit of trial and error.

Some SPF filters can be more irritating than others. If I had a client who was more on the sensitive side, or perhaps more compromised or acne-prone, then I would be wary about some of the traditional filters, like oxybenzone, octinoxate and oxalate.

Some of the newer formulations tend to be less irritating, such as tinosorb S, tinosorb M and uvinal A plus, as well as your mineral filters like zinc oxide and titanium oxide, which suit sensitive skins better. Fragrance in an SPF formula can also be irritating.

Mineral filters tend to be less irritating as they have larger molecules, so they are not sinking into the deeper layers of skin, they sit more on the surface. But, if your client has a compromised skin barrier, something like a zinc oxide may sting and irritate them, so hybrid mineral and non-irritating UV filters like tinosorb S or M can be a really good compromise for these clients.

However, mineral sunscreens don’t always suit darker skin tones, as they leave a white cast on the skin, so there is a bit of trial and error. For Fitzpatrick skin tones five and six, chemical or organic filters may be more suitable as they do not leave a cast.

Andy Millward is a facialist and aesthetician based in Birmingham. He also educates other advanced therapists in skin treatments.

How can I achieve national and trade press coverage for my spa?

Across many industries, Covid-19 has been a lesson in malleability. PR strategies have been forced to become more nimble as we navigate new consumer behaviours. Although your PR approach may differ depending on the type of spa you run or your location, here are some key tactics that you can implement quickly.

Newsjacking: As an industry, beauty and spa is in a fantastic position for newsjacking as we are being talked about. With ongoing uncertainty comes opportunities for you to position yourself as an expert qualified to comment in related reports and articles. Although this technique is most effective when you’re able to monitor the news daily, an immediate boost can be achieved on an ad-hoc basis.

Evidence and statistics: When pitching your news story, always ask yourself “so what?”. Consider the wider issues of the moment and think about where your story falls into that. Having backed-up evidence and statistics will help with this, making your messaging more credible.

Tell your story: Communication has changed from simply “selling” to an approach that is much more focused on producing empathy and creating community. Perhaps there is a member of staff who has gone above and beyond to serve your customers, or a collaborative partnership between your business and another.

This “we’re all in this together” movement is important and newsworthy.

Sophie Lowe is account director at The Spa PR Company, a PR and communications agency for spa, beauty and wellness.

How can I prepare the skin correctly to prevent infection?

For anyone working in beauty and cosmetics, it is fundamental to focus on preparing the skin in order to limit the risk of infection to clients, both before, during and after treatments.

Effective skin cleansing is the most important aspect of any treatment. Adopting a good aseptic technique while using an effective, topical, fast-acting cleanser and antimicrobial solution is crucial.

A big mistake seen in the beauty industry is the use of wipes to clean the skin and remove make-up. In my opinion, wipes are not appropriate or effective. Some are extremely harsh on the skin and can cause irritation, and this is before any treatment has been carried out.

Therefore, using the best product possible to effectively disinfect and cleanse skin before treatment, while not causing any irritation, is important. There are several products on the market, and finding the right one for you and your clients is fundamental. I use hypochlorous acid in clinic.

This is a highly effective cleanser with antimicrobial properties that cleans the skin without causing any irritation or sensitivity. The best thing is it’s suitable for use on normal and sensitive skins and can be used before, during and after treatment.