News

Thérapie opens first England clinic and plots 100 more openings by 2021

Advanced skincare group Thérapie Clinic has opened its first site in England and outlined plans for a wider rollout in the next three years.

Thérapie, which has 23 sites across Ireland, Northern Ireland and Scotland, specialises in aesthetic beauty treatments such as laser, dermal fillers, peels and microneedling. It opened the first England site in Newcastle’s Metro Centre on May 26. Another five clinics are already slated to open in England later this year.

September will see four openings – three in London at Westfield London Shopping Centre, Westfield Stratford City Shopping Centre and Wigmore Street, plus another in Sheffield’s Meadowhall Shopping Centre. These will be followed by an October launch on Cross Street, Manchester.

Thérapie managing director Phillip McGlade said: “We see it as a big opportunity for someone like ourselves to offer our services to the general UK market.

“We’ve had a lot of customers ask us to open up in England because there’s no one who matches us on the price point and quality.”

He added that the company has ambitious plans to open a total of 100 England-based clinics in the next three years, with hopes to launch 30 sites in 2019 alone. “We want to get the UK up and running as a steady ship and after that we will look at launching into other countries, such as America,” said McGlade.

“We have one clinic in India already, with another one opening in a couple of weeks, so this may be an area we expand more in the future.”

Half of all fake beauty product sales come from social media

Social media platforms have contributed to more than 50% of black market cosmetics sales, an issue which has long plagued the professional beauty sector. Out of 50,000 product infringements, Facebook was traced to 41.1% of fraudulent sales, Instagram contributed 9% and eBay was responsible for 30.4%, discovered research by copyright protection firm Red Points.

“Counterfeiting is a challenge that has always plagued the cosmetics industry but which has been amplified in recent years with the advent of social media, despite online platforms’ work with brands and law enforcement to zero in on counterfeiters,” said Laura Urquizu, chief executive of Red Points.

More than half (69%) of consumers said they are concerned about fake cosmetics, with 19.5% admitting they bought counterfeits by mistake. However, almost a quarter have knowingly bought fake goods.

“Unless companies implement smart ways to address the issue head-on, counterfeiters will continue to exploit gaps in the system to spread out illegal cosmetics online,” added Urquizu.

The report comes after many high-profile brands such as Kylie Cosmetics and Fenty Beauty reported being victims of counterfeiting. Fake make-up products also pose a health risk to consumers.

Darphin withdraws from UK and Ireland salon and spa markets

French spa skincare brand Darphin has announced it is to close the salon and spa arm of its UK and Ireland business. The brand is to maintain its presence in the retail market but is pulling out of salons and spas and has begun the process of informing its accounts.

A Darphin spokesperson told Professional Beauty: “In today’s complex and rapidly changing prestige beauty environment, Darphin UK and Ireland has made the strategic decision to close the spa and salon arm of the business. This has been a very difficult decision to reach given the spa history of the brand. Darphin would like to thank all of our partners for their support over the years.”

Positioned at the premium end of the market, Darphin has a comprehensive range of skincare and select body and sun care products, plus a menu of signature treatments. Originally developed as a salon brand, Darphin was founded by kinesiotherapist Pierre Darphin in 1958 in Paris.

While Darphin declined to comment on the number of UK salon and spa accounts that would be affected, it is understood that salons were Darphin’s main distribution channel in the UK, but represent a far smaller percentage of turnover in mainland Europe.

Rise of K-Beauty sees UK skincare sales soar and make-up fall

The growing popularity of Korean Beauty trend “glass skin” caused UK make-up sales to drop in the first quarter of 2018, according to global information company The NPD Group. It seems that more Brits are opting for the trend of a flawless complexion using highperformance skincare instead of the previously popular contouring look, with make-up sales declining by 2% in the three-month period between January to March 2018, and bronzers (-5%) and blushers (-10%) taking the biggest hit. Meanwhile, sales of prestige skincare grew by 6% in the same period, with anti-ageing moisturisers (10%), toners (15%), serums (12%) and cleansers (2%) reporting the biggest growth. “The trend for ‘glass skin’ [has taken] hold and as a result, skincare sales are improving dramatically,” said Helen Duxbury, senior account manager at NPD UK beauty, adding that consumers “seem to be moving away from make-up products that create a defined, chiselled look”.

in brief

// Judy Naaké (left), founder of tanning brand St Tropez, and Caroline Neville (right), president of Cosmetic Executive Women (CEW), have both been recognised in the Queen’s birthday honours list. Both were awarded MBEs for their contribution to the industry and dedication to advancing UK beauty businesses and female entrepreneurs.

// Health and beauty has grabbed the top spot as the UK’s fastest growing retail sector, with sales forecasted to grow 16.5% until 2023, found analyst GlobalData. The research also revealed that the premium sector is now outperforming the wider beauty market.

// Two new reality TV programmes focused on salon life are set to hit UK screens. E4’s The Super Salon, based in Sheffield, and BBC3’s Beauty Blowout, based in Liverpool, will both delve into the inner workings of a high-street salon. Air dates are yet to be announced.

// The London School of Beauty and Make-Up has introduced Cancer Touch Therapy training by organic skincare brand Made for Life. The threeday programme costs £450 and all proceeds go to the Made for Life Foundation.

// Jessica and Mii Cosmetics distributor Gerrard International has collaborated with distributor Grace Beauty, co-founded by CIDESCOtrained Terri Grace and husband Jason, to launch Mii in New Zealand.

Beauty and nail salons outperforming other independents on the high street

Salons are still outperforming most other businesses on the high street in terms of growth in the number of units, according to new figures.

2017 saw 388 and 176 net openings (number of openings minus number of closures) of beauty and nail salons respectively, according to Local Data Company’s (LDC) Retail and Leisure Trends Report 2017/2018.

Beauty salons ranked third for net openings between 2012 and 2017, with only barbers and tobacconists opening more sites.

During this five-year period there were 1,766 net openings of beauty salons in Great Britain, 1,155 of nail salons and 1,186 of combined hair and beauty salons.

Even though the net change in the number of beauty salon openings dropped between 2016 and 2017 (from 435 openings to 388), the category rose to second place in the list of fastest growing in 2017.

Figures released by LDC in April showed that tanning salons were one of the few businesses keeping UK high streets afloat during 2017, while beauty and nail salon chains dropped by 3.82% and 12.50% respectively.

However, this report only looked at chain businesses and found that the number of new high street chain store openings in total fell from 4,534 in 2016 to 4,083 in 2017.

Professional Beauty launches firstever Lash Championships

Professional Beauty is launching a new competition to find the UK and Ireland’s top lash artists.

The Lash Championships, which will make its debut on the show floor at PB Ireland (October 7–8) and PB North (October 21–22), will comprise three categories: Classic, Russian 3D Volume and New Volume.

For each category, there will be three divisions: Novice (for competitors who have up to 18 months’ industry experience), Professional (from 18 months to three years) and Expert (three years or more).

“These two-day competitions undoubtedly support our industry by providing lash artists opportunities for growth and success,” said competition director Heather Hughes, who has worked in the lash market for nine years. “It’s their chance to gain recognition in the industry, which can have considerable benefits for their businesses.”

Entries cost £50 for professionals and £15 for students. The entry deadline for the Ireland Lash Championships 2018 is October 4. Enter at: professionalbeauty.ie/lashchamps. The deadline for the North Lash Championships 2018 is October 18. Enter at: professionalbeauty.co.uk/lashchamps.

The Lash Championships will also run at the 2019 Professional Beauty London show with entries opening later this year.

in brief

// Distributor Sweet Squared is launching male waxing training for its UK and Ireland accounts with premium brand wax:one. The Male Grooming course covers wax treatments from the waist up, while advanced course Male Intimate covers a tidy right through to a full Hollywood.

// Beauty consultant Cathy Edwards and cosmetic nurse Pauline Dean have opened a joint business in Stoke-on-Trent. One half is beauty salon Dolled Up, where Edwards does microblading, facials and waxing, and the other – PH Skins Cosmetic Clinic – is where Dean carries out aesthetic treatments such as dermal fillers and chemical peels.

// Codage and iS Clinical distributor Harpar Grace International has expanded its team with the appointment of Jodie Lever as training and brand engagement manager. Lever has extensive experience in the beauty and spa industry.

// Distributor Salon System has relaunched its website, showcasing its Gellux, Just Wax, Marvelbrow and Naturalash brands. The Education and Training section now includes advice from educators, therapists and industry influencers.

// Confectionary company Ferrero Food Service has launched bite-sized versions of its popular Kinder Bueno chocolate for salons to offer guests alongside a drink post-treatment. “At only 6.5p per Kinder Bueno Mini piece, it’s a small investment that will give a big impression,” said Zareen Deboo, foodservice channel operations manager.

Londoners UK’s biggest beauty treatment spenders, with Scots spending least

Research into the UK’s beauty treatment habits has found that Londoners have the most beauty treatments of the population, spending a median amount of £120 per month, while more than a quarter admitted to a monthly treatment bill of over £500. Meanwhile, Scots spend the least, at a median of just £2 a month.

Commissioned by beauty insurance provider Hiscox, the survey asked more than 2,000 UK adults about their treatment habits.

An alarming 40% said they would let an untrained person wax them, suggesting that a large chunk of the British public don’t take the potential dangers seriously.

Waxing featured frequently in the survey answers, with 50% of respondents saying they “hate” getting a wax, though one in 50 Londoners said they actually enjoy it.

Unsurprisingly, fewer Londoners (36%) said price was important when choosing a salon, compared to clients in the rest of the country, where 48% said they were most concerned about price and 46% said treatment quality was the most important factor.

People in Wales were most concerned about getting an appointment time to suit them, while for those in East Anglia, the vicinity of a salon is just as important as it being well-rated by clients.

Health organisation calls for ban on the term anti-ageing

A public health charity has called for “anti-ageing” to be banned as a term in the beauty industry.

A research report conducted by the Royal Society for Public Health (RSPH), in partnership with the Calouste Gulbenkain Foundation, states that the “everyday conversations, informed by the media, are rife with examples of language that either trivialise, vilify or catastrophise the ageing process. Chief among these is the persistent use of the term ‘anti-ageing’ within the cosmetics and beauty industry.”

It found that almost half of women and a quarter of men feel real pressure to maintain a youthful appearance. The charity believes the frequent use of the phrase on products and beauty treatments insinuates that growing older is something to be ashamed of. Shirley Cramer CBA, chief executive of the RSPH, said: “Our report shows that ageist attitudes abound in society and have a major impact on the public’s health, and yet they are rarely treated with the seriousness they deserve.”

The charity is calling for all major beauty product outlets as well as beauty magazines, to ban the use of the term and “refocus the ageing narrative in opportunities to be embraced rather than processes to be resisted”.

in brief

// Caci key accounts manager Mary Overton travelled 25,114 miles in the first three months of 2018, visiting Sydney, Australia, and Tirana, Albania, to train beauty professionals in the Synergy SPED enhanced facial toning technology and Quantum body-shaping.

// The National Hairdressers’ Federation’s 2018 Business Awards are open for entries. Beauty, barbering and hair salons can enter any of the nine categories, including Best Independent Salon and Best Client Experience. The deadline is Friday, July 27. Enter at nhf.info/nhfbusinessawards

// Outback Organics will supply House of Evelyn’s new second salon inside Vincent Hotel in Liverpool, which opened on May 10. The waxing brand also supplies the original salon. Brand sales rep Allison Mcallister visited the salon to deliver training following the launch.

// Beauty Concepts International (BCI) has launched a new website at beautyconcepts.co.uk. The redesigned site features a webshop for both professionals and consumers, although professionals are required to apply for a Pro Shop account to see trade prices.

// Harley Skin and Laser medi-spa in Staffordshire has been made an ambassador for cosmeceutical brand Alumier MD. Clinical director Harley Spencer said: “We pride ourselves on our innovative aesthetics treatments…This goes hand in hand with AlumierMD’s commitment to the science behind great skin.”

CND develops new-generation Shellac Luxe, with 60-second removal time

Nail brand CND has developed a new product billed as “the fastest gel polish service on the market”. The brand claims Shellac Luxe, which has a two-step application, can be removed in 60 seconds and offers the same minimum 14-day wear and high-gloss finish as original Shellac. There are two products in the new service – a self-adhering base and colour coat in one called Gel Polish, and a Top Coat. Both contain “micro pores” that allow gel-polish remover to penetrate quickly using the wrap removal method. There are 65 shades of Luxe Gel Polish including 15 new and 50 existing Shellac colours.

CND co-founder and style director Jan Arnold said, “New CND Shellac Luxe is…a premium service that taps into the things we know our nail professionals and their clients are looking for: faster appointments and kinder treatments.”

CND Shellac Luxe launches to salons in late July, priced at £18.95 per 12.5ml colour. CND UK and Ireland distributor Sweet Squared will hold “Xperience” Days in nine locations across the UK and Ireland on July 1 and 2 to unveil Shellac Luxe to CND techs before it hits the market.

The Eyelash Design Company to distribute tanning brand St Moriz

Professional lash and brow treatment company The Eyelash Design Company has taken on distribution of tanning brand St Moriz, and will launch the brand’s new spray tan formulas onto the professional market.

Previously only a retail range for consumers, St Moriz Salon Solutions was developed with a “trained team of professional tan experts” to allow tanning pros to offer the brand to clients.

The range includes a pre-tan Barrier Cream, five shades of Spray Tanning Solution from 10% DHA to Ultra Dark in 1 litre sizes, and two finishing products: Seal & Go and Set & Glow. The products will be available to salons, spas and mobile therapists in the UK and Ireland from autumn this year.

Philip Marsh, general manager at The Eyelash Design Company, commented: “We are thrilled to be partnering with St Moriz to distribute Salon Solutions, an exciting product range to appeal to existing and new customers eager to introduce professional tanning to their businesses. We are excited to showcase St Moriz Salon Solutions at upcoming beauty trade exhibitions [including PB North].”

NEWS IN PICTURES

Organic mother and baby skincare brand Nom Nom has launched a NOMinee partnership scheme, which offers a low-cost starter set containing the full range, online training and support. The brand has also released its Organic Pregnancy Relax Oil in a professional size.

diary dates

// Scratch Stars Awards July 15, Tropicana Beach Club, London Awards for nail techs, trainers and salons. 01959 547000 scratchstarsawards.co.uk

// Professional Beauty Johannesburg September 2–3, Gallagher Convention Centre, Johannesburg The largest of the South African Professional Beauty exhibitions. +27 (0)11 781 5970 probeauty.co.za

// Olympia Beauty September 30–October 1, Olympia, London Trade show with competitions. 01959 569867 olympiabeauty.co.uk

// Global Wellness Summit October 6–8, Technogym Cesana, Italy Wellbeing conference for top-level executives in the spa and wellness industry. +1 212 716 1199 globalwellnesssummit.com

// Professional Beauty Ireland October 7–8, RDS, Dublin Irish edition of the Professional Beauty show, featuring live stages. 020 7351 0536 professionalbeauty.ie

// Salon International October 13–15, ExCeL, London Leading hair expo, with live stages and competitions. 020 7351 0536 salonshow.co.uk

// Professional Beauty North October 21–22, Manchester Central, Manchester PB’s leading trade show for beauty pros in the North. 020 7351 0536 professionalbeauty.co.uk/north