14 mins
News
Beauty and nail salons among fastest-growing business types on high street
The number of beauty and nail salons saw a net increase in 2023 from the previous year, according to new figures from Local Data Company (LDC).
Its FY 2023 Retail and Leisure Trends Analysis report provides an insight into openings and closures of bricksand-mortar retail and leisure businesses in Great Britain’s high streets, retail parks, shopping centres and standalone locations.
Overall, there was a rise in closures across all relevant industries included in the report, including beauty businesses, restaurants and chemists, among others.
The number of GB-wide closures increased from 48,694 units in 2022 to 55,514 units in 2023, signifying a 14% year-on-year increase and the highest closures figure reported in the last decade. Despite more stores closing, there was a 5% increase in new store openings from 45,329 in 2022 to 47,744 in 2023.
Barbering businesses in Great Britain grew the fastest in 2023, reaching pre-pandemic levels with 665 new units; 441 more than the previous year.
Nail salons were the fourth fastest-growing retail category, with a net increase of 302 units in 2023, while beauty salons followed in fifth place with a net increase of 254 units in 2023.
Independent businesses had a tough 2023 compared to businesses with multiple units.
Following two consecutive years of growth, independent businesses saw closures peak with a net decline of 2,827 units in 2023.
The business categories that saw the greatest decline in independents were hairdressers (-705), estate agents (-337), newsagents (-238) and combined hair and beauty salons (-232).
Revealed: the biggest skincare mistakes TikTok influencers are making
60% of TikTokers are pulling on their skin too harshly when applying products, according to new statistics.
Skipping important skincare steps or layering products in the wrong order was the second biggest issue, with 54% of TikTok creators seen doing this.
Software brand Fresha counted the frequency of common application mistakes creators made across 100 of the most popular TikToks tagged #GRWM (get ready with me) and #skincareroutine.
The third most common mistake was not applying products to the chest or neck, with 54% of influencers seen doing this.
In addition, the study showed that 22% didn’t apply SPF after their morning skincare routine.
Other common mistakes spotted across the skincare routines included putting unclean fingers into product jars, with over a third (36%) doing this, and 30% of videos saw creators wash their face using either too hot or too cold water.
Meanwhile, the most common makeup mistakes included not blending foundation into the neck, using too much concealer under the eyes, not using primer, cross-contaminating products and dragging product rather than tapping.
News in brief
BC Softwear has partnered with the Beauty Rebellion on a campaign to encourage more spas to offer plus-sized robes to promote inclusivity for more people, including plus-sized guests, pregnant women and guests who want to size up for comfort. The brand has also welcomed Melanie Sanderson, Joseph Hopson and Christopher Maule to its business development team.
Babtac has appointed beauty expert Caroline Hirons to its board. Hirons will use her platform and expertise to input her knowledge and bring awareness to Babtac’s work in the industry including its focus on a need for industry-wide regulation, recognised qualifications, and safety standards.
Spanish skincare brand Germaine de Capuccini (GDC) has partnered with The Spa at Breedon Priory in Derbyshire, with facials on offer including Timexpert Rides Neo Age and the Timexpert Radiance C+ Illuminating Facial. GDC has also partnered with The Turkish Baths in Harrogate.
Refectocil has announced Lisa Stone and Ruth Atkins as its new UK head trainers. The pair were selected for their strong backgrounds in the beauty industry and extensive knowledge of Refectocil products and treatments. Together they will lead Refectocil’s training initiatives.
Make-up artist and beauty educator Aarti Pal (pictured) has launched the South Asian Beauty Collective (SABC). Her mission is to re-shape beauty standards by putting a spotlight on brands committed to fostering genuine representation.
More than a third of Brits reporting skin issues caused by air pollution
Over 70% of Brits are worried about the effects of air pollution on their skin, according to new research by Westfield’s How We Shop platform.
Over a third (38%) of Brits believe they have experienced skin problems due to air pollution with the most prevalent issues including dry skin (54%), increased dirtiness (45%), blemishes (21%), and early signs of ageing (20%).
As concerns among UK consumers continue to mount, the report indicates that significant shifts in daily skincare routines are being undertaken to mitigate the adverse effects of air pollution.
A third of Brits (31%) have transitioned to using gentle cleansers designed to remove pollutants without stripping natural oils.
While women continue to lead in the adoption of antipollution skincare products (57%), 43% of surveyed men have also begun investing in an anti-pollution skincare routine, including products containing vitamin C and ferulic acid.
Individuals aged 30-44 are the most frequent purchasers of these items, with leading suppliers including professional skincare brands such as Dermalogica and Elemis, according to the survey.
Residents of urban areas bear the brunt of pollution's detrimental effects – over a quarter (29%) expressed a willingness to relocate to rural areas in pursuit of better skin health.
Over 10% of beauty products end up in waste
More than 10% of beauty products go to waste in brands’ supply chains, which equates to $4.8 billion (£3.8 million) worth of products destroyed annually, according to new statistics.
The new report, from sustainable online retailer Boop, also found that overproduction accounts for 6.2% of this waste and 4% comes from products disposed of due to damage or reaching their expiry date.
The three main causes of the industry’s waste problem are overproduction, packaging and imperfect stock. In fact, packaging makes up 70% of the beauty industry’s waste and 95% of cosmetic packaging is thrown away.
Inaccurate record of stock by brands mean they can’t manage their items, resulting in products spending their shelf life deteriorating in a warehouse, according to the report.
Ambitious forecasting and trends such as Christmas edition sets and trend-driven packaging, like the bright pink boxes used to promote the Barbie movie in 2023, also contributed to waste, as they have short-term customer appeal.
News in brief
Gaia Skincare is launching into four new spa partners within the UK and Europe this spring, meaning a total of nine new spas since the start of 2024. The new partnerships are with Longueville Manor Hotel in Jersey (pictured), Rose Retreat in South Wales, The Beauty Rooms in Yorkshire, and You Spa in Cheshire.
Cosmeceutical skincare brand Medik8 has signed Dr Denby Engleman as global ambassador and resident expert. Dr Engleman is a boardcertified dermatologist and Mohs surgeon, specialising in medical and cosmetic dermatology.
Manor House Hotel in Alsager, Cheshire, has revealed its extended spa garden with “secret hot tubs” for a fresh air wellness experience. The high demand for more outdoor spa experiences led to the two new private hot tub spaces, which are only accessible with a key.
Skincare brands Proverb and Pinks Boutique have launched into their first Hilton Hotel, Syon Park in London. Proverbs and Pinks Boutique offer natural and organic spa treatments, which complement Hilton’s move towards sustainability. Treatments on offer include Butterfly Kiss Signature Facial and the Skin Workout Facial.
Aesthetic device brand Gelida has appointed Sadie Van Sanden Cooke as sales director. Van Sanden Cooke has a long career in aesthetics including roles at Candela and Lumenis. Gelida chief executive Charles Mills said her knowledge “will play an instrumental role in expanding our brand”.
New campaign reignites call to scrap VAT on SPF products
As part of a 366 Days of SPF campaign, Yorkshire-based skin clinic and retailer Face the Future has teamed up with Amy Callaghan, the MP behind the VAT Burn campaign that is petitioning for the UK Government to remove the VAT off all SPF products.
Seeing as sunscreens are essential for public health and prevention, and are being recommended by the NHS, Callaghan believes they should be more affordable.
Face the Future conducted a YouGov survey of over 2,000 people, highlighting that the UK is not adhering to SPF guidelines The survey found that:
• 22% apply SPF daily, with only 8% reapplying it
• 55% only apply SPF when it is sunny
• While 68% of the UK are worried about sunburn, only 61% are worried about skin cancer
• 64% say SPF is expensive
• 40% of those who wear SPF only wear it only holiday
• 55% spend less than £25 on skincare per month
• 46% are not familiar with the symptoms of skin cancer
• 56% who actively seek a tan do so for confidence
To encourage other retailers and the Government to follow suit, and to encourage wider use of SPF, Face the Future is giving customers 20% off all such products until the end of May.
SMEs no longer have to contribute to costs of apprenticeship training
From April 1, 2024, the UK Government has committed to fully funding the training costs for young people aged 16–21, meaning small and medium-sized (SME) employers such as beauty salons no longer have to contribute to the cost of apprenticeship training for this age group.
Prime Minister Rishi Sunak set out a package of reforms designed to support businesses to deliver more apprenticeship places and cut red tape for SMEs.
The major change for SMEs is that the Government committed to fully fund apprenticeships in small businesses by paying the full cost of training for anyone up to the age of 21.
Previously, salons and other small businesses were required to contribute toward apprenticeship training costs.
This initiative aims to reduce costs for SMEs, enabling them to employ apprentices, and to expand opportunities for young individuals across a wider variety of sectors.
Collectively, these measures aim to generate up to 20,000 additional apprenticeship positions.
News in brief
Bodyism has announced a 2024 Practitioners-In-Residence programme at its flagship members’ club in Notting Hill, London. Practitioners include facialists Holly Warren and Beata Durtan, reflexologist Romilly, Poppy Delbridge, who uses the Tapping Method, and Adam Claridge for fine-line tattoos.
Temple Spa has partnered with Lifehouse Spa & Hotel in Essex. Temple Spa CBD and menopause treatments have been added to the Lifehouse Spa menu, giving guests inclusive experiences at the spa.
Luisa Scott, aesthetic nurse and founder of Newcastle Skin Clinic, has created a new procedure to help treat cleft lip by injecting filler in small amounts using a very fine needle. The filler integrates with the surrounding tissue and attracts water, which helps to create volume and smooth out the lip. She will be offering it free of charge to help patients.
Skincare brand Transformulas won four trophies at the Universal Beauty Awards 2024: gold for Best Moisturiser and bronze in Best Men’s Face Cream with its Marine Miracle Crème, silver for WrinkleBlock in Best Firming Serum, and a highly commended for Marine EyeZone’s packaging.
Harpar Grace International, distributor of brands including Déesse Pro and Is Clinical, has appointed Nicola Bell as global commercial director. Bell was previously commercial director for IIAA and has also worked for Clinique.
Regenerative medicine and preventative treatments among top aesthetic trends
Regenerative procedures such as polynucleotides and exosomes have been named the top aesthetic treatment trend in a poll of aesthetic practitioners.
The survey, from insurance company Hamilton Fraser, revealed that 64.1% of practitioners are interested in this area.
The other leading trends mentioned were “prejuvenation” (treating younger patients with preventative treatments), named by 58.2% of respondents, new applications for radiofrequency microneedling (43.1%) and weight loss injections (34.6%).
However, injectables were still the most popular treatments already offered, with botulinum toxin and dermal fillers topping the poll. This was followed by skincare, with 56.9% offering it and 47.1% saying they performed chemical peels.
Microneedling was offered by 36.3%, mesotherapy by 34.3%, light-based devices such as IPL, LED and laser by 17%, and radiofrequency by 15%.
Mental health was flagged as an important issue, and more than 85% had turned patients away if they felt they were unsuitable for treatment, citing body dysmorphia and unrealistic expectations as the top reasons.
London College of Beauty Therapy acquired by Fashion Retail Academy
The Fashion Retail Academy (FRA) has acquired leading beauty school London College of Beauty Therapy (LCBT).
As part of the acquisition, both the FRA and LCBT will also become part of a new charity, Education for Industry (EFI) Group, a structure designed to provide support for both colleges’ future growth.
FRA chief executive Lee Lucas, will become chief executive of EFI Group and both colleges, and former LCBT chief executive Christianne Cavaliere de Moncayo will depart the business.
LCBT was established in 1995 and has grown to become a leading provider of fully funded courses for students aged 16-19.
Kay Pennington launches resilience workshops
Kay Pennington, former group spa manager at Center Parcs’ Aqua Sana spas, has launched a new venture – a workshop programme called Resilience and Power.
It aims to help professionals channel their inner strength and resilience to be better leaders, It has three focuses: spiritual, physical and scientific, and involves group activities and exercises, and individual learning.
Pennington, a previous winner of Leader of the Year at both the Professional Beauty and World Spa & Wellness Awards, said the company was born out of a desire to help people overcome trauma in their lives, as she herself has, and understand more about what causes each individual, to react in the ways they do and channel those learnings into better performance, happiness and team dynamics in the workplace.
Pennington has begun working with professionals in the spa industry but said the workshops are applicable to any sector. She will offer them at three levels aimed at colleges, teams and executives.
Diary dates
// May 10–11
Aesthetic Medicine Live Olympia London
The medical aesthetic show returns with new product launches and both clinical and business education programmes.
020 7351 0536 aestheticmed.co.uk/london
// June 8
Global Wellness Day Worldwide
The not-for-profit day will see spas raise awareness about living well.
+90 216 571 49 00 globalwellnessday.org
// June 9–10
Professional Beauty & Hair Glasgow Scottish Event Campus, Glasgow
The first Scottish edition of the show promises three live stages and the biggest brands.
020 7351 0536 professionalbeauty.co.uk/glasgow
// June 23–24
Spa Life UK Convention Cotswolds Water Park Hotel, Gloucestershire
The convention includes meetings and education to help spa professionals grow their businesses.
01268 745892 spa-life-international
// July 12–13
Face Conference Business Design Centre, London
Face will present a redesigned programme featuring four agendas.
+33 (0)1 58 56 74 00 faceconference.com
// September 29–30
Professional Beauty North Manchester Central
The largest beauty exhibition in the North returns with product launches, education, competitions and more.
020 7351 0536 professionalbeauty.co.uk/north
Crystal Clear launches free national acne clinic
Crystal Clear is launching a free acne clinic at its Liverpool HQ which offers expert-led advice for those suffering from the condition.
Every month, new patients will be invited for treatment and given a bespoke treatment plan to support the improvement of their acne and acne scarring, at no cost. Seeing the effect her services have had on her own teenage children’s severe acne, Crystal Clear founder Sharon Hilditch wanted to expand her reach.
“Living with acne at any age can be an extremely difficult experience,” said Hilditch. Launching this Acne Clinic will help people who are suffering first-hand, and it won’t cost them anything. I urge anyone who is suffering from acne to get in touch. We’d love to help you.”
Guinot franchise salon opens in East Belfast
Salon owner Debbie Adams and the Guinot team have opened a new Guinot franchise salon in East Belfast, bringing the total number of Guinot franchise salons in the UK to 14.
The new salon features two treatment rooms offering face and body treatments plus hair removal, massages, manicures and pedicures.
Adams commented on the opening, “It was such a privilege to see so many friends and clientele come along to support me, and I am excited to see what the future holds as part of the Guinot franchise network.”
Previously known as Salon on the Square, the new Guinot East Belfast salon offers non-invasive face and body treatments including Guinot’s star Hydradermie Youth Facial and the Advanced Technispa slimming and firming treatments.
CACI hits the red carpet
CACI International has been making a splash with celebrities in the run up to some major events this season.
Ahead of new Amy Winehouse biopic, Back to Black, CACI was the red carpet facial prep of choice for both director Sam Taylor-Johnson and actor Marisa Abela, who plays Winehouse.
Meanwhile, in the lead up to the 77th Bafta awards ceremony in London, CACI hosted a week-long pop-up with Hollywood day spa Carasoin of Beverly Hills at London’s Corinthia Hotel in the company’s second collaboration with Carasoin for the Baftas.
Carasoin founder and aesthetician Lena Bratschi prepped the pre-Bafta’s skin of actors Ryan Gosling, Claire Foy and Phoebe Dynevor. During 2024’s red carpet awards season, her A-list clients also included Oscar-winner Cillian Murphy and Golden Globes-winner Elizabeth Debicki.
Separately, CACI has also been a hit with girl group artists Nicole Appleton from All Saints and Kimberley Walsh from Girls Aloud.