ask the EXPERTS

When is it OK to cut a client’s cuticles and how can I do it safely?

Clients get confused between the cuticle and the eponychium. The eponychium is live skin that protects the nail plate and should not be cut, whereas the cuticle is the dead skin that attaches itself to the nail plate from the underside of the eponychium as the nail grows. Thinking it’s the cuticle, some clients request the eponychium to be cut as it looks nicer, but it is there to protect your client from bacteria and infection, and cutting it can cause damage to the nail plate itself.

It’s up to you to educate your client about this. To safely tidy up the area, gently push back the eponychium with a cuticle pusher after applying cuticle remover, or a warm oil soak. In doing so, you will also lift the cuticle and prepare the nail plate for a manicure. It is safe and advisable to cut hangnails too because, if left, they can tear and cause soreness, infection and damage around the nail.

Always provide your client with a good homecare routine whether they get regular manis or not. However, if your client doesn’t attend regularly, advise them that the best way to look after their eponychium and remove the cuticle at home would be to wait until after a bath or shower when the area is soft. They can then gently push back the cuticle using an orange stick or the corner of a flannel, using circular motions over the nail plate to exfoliate the surface and gently move away the cuticle. Suggest that they also keep this area moisturised with hand cream and cuticle oil. I always suggest keeping these next to the bed, or in front of their computer at work, to remind them to apply regularly throughout the day.

What advice should I give clients who want to switch to all-natural skincare?

Changing from traditional skincare to a natural line will require some adjustment, but I believe it is worth it. There’s been a rise in awareness about how certain skincare ingredients can cause harm, especially potential hormone disruptors, and customers are now looking to empower themselves and make more educated choices.

However, you should prepare them for the differences they will notice in a natural range. Firstly, explain about the look and feel of non-chemical products. An authentic natural product may separate from time to time and the colour and consistency may change from batch to batch. However, the beneficial, long-term results they will experience will be consistent. The client’s skin will need a week or two to adjust to the new products and this may cause it to react and breakout. Advise clients not to be alarmed if this happens.

Also, make them aware that the colon and sebaceous glands are interrelated and they both play their part in excreting toxins. Artifical lubricants present in some skincare can disrupt this process, forming a seal on the skin and causing pores to become clogged. In these cases, skin will experience a period of detoxification so tell clients to be patient and allow the skin to function as it should.

How can I achieve a streak-free tan on tricky areas?

Tanning can be difficult and clients may experience times when their tan might not appear exactly as they wanted, but this can largely be avoided by following a few simple rules. When booking the tan, I advise my clients – especially if they have dry skin – to do a full-body exfoliation the day before the appointment.

They should moisturise then repeat the exfoliation on the morning of the appointment, ensuring that they shower afterwards so that they don’t have any product on the skin prior to the tan. Alternatively, you could offer exfoliation as part of the tanning treatment.

In addition to dealing with dry skin, exfoliation can strip the skin of any previous tan that might remain on the body, which is essential for a perfect finish. Build up of tan on a client can make the colour you apply look uneven and unnatural, even if you apply it properly.

Pay attention to the ankles and tops of the feet and also, for clients with a larger, heavier bust, the bra strap area.

Barrier cream such as Wing Smoothing Spray from Crazy Angel will help to protect the dryer areas on the body. If the client has peeling patch on the skin, make your own judgment whether to go ahead with the tan. For the hands, I always cover the whole area then rub the client’s hands as if I am washing them, making sure to rub between the fingers. Don’t forget to protect the knees and elbows, which can also be tricky.